Watches that either didn't get the attention they deserved or are primed for a second look.  Notes:  2:25 Early Breguet Marine example (and another)  5:20 A. Lange & Sohne Cabaret  7:28 H. Jane Chon's Four + One  9:05 Omega Seamaster Railmaster  10:54 The Teutonic Speedmaster  14:03 Tag Heuer Aquaracer 300m WAN2110  16:55 The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole (show sponsor!)  17:57 JLC Master Compressor Diving Automatic Us Navy Seals LE  21:47 The Tudor North Flag  25:18 Bulgari Aluminium GMT  29:56 Omega Seamaster GMT 2538 "Great White"  34:07 Glashutte Original Sport Evolution QP  37:38 IWC Portugieser Chronograph  40:39 Hublot Classic Fusion 38mm   42:53 Longines Conquest VHP GMT  48:07 IWC Ingenieur  48:44 Blancpain Leman  49:00 Parmigiani Toric Memory Time  49:10 Zenith Elite Rainbow Diver  50:00 IWC 3538 Aquatimer  52:57 The Early Breitling Aerospace 53:09 Oris Regulateur "Der Meistertaucher"

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My guest this week is Sylvain Berneron. Sylvain is a designer and the founder of one of the most exciting young watch brands. Before starting Berneron, Sylvain spent five years at Breitling, where he eventually became Chief Product Officer. There, he helped completely revamp and build a product portfolio after the brand’s acquisition. Before Breitling, he was also a watch designer at Richemont, working on projects for its portfolio of brands. He got his start designing motorcycles and cars, most notably for brands like BMW and Ducati. Now, Berneron is leading his own brand, and his first watch, the Mirage, makes a statement. It’s an asymmetrical gold wristwatch that takes its shape from its caliber. More important than his background though, he’s one of the most thoughtful guys around. Sylvain and I talk about his career, what watch design is missing, and about building his brand and developing the Mirage. Show Notes 1:11: Berneron's website 1:30: One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own 21:30: Breitling Sells Controlling Stake To CVC Capital Partners For $870 Million 39:00: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra 1:01:54: After A Decade Working For Big Names, Simon Brette Steps Out On His Own 1:02:00: In Conversation With Xhevdet Rexhepi, Independent Watchmaking's Next Big Thing

In Conversation With Sylvain Berneron

This week, we discuss a few new releases on our desks from VPC and Anoma which leads to a short discussion of the growing small-brand scene. We also jump into our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet [Re]Master02. Finally, we talk about brand exhibits and spend some time chatting about a recent visit to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, and what made our jaws drop at the mecca of museums. Show Notes 2:50: Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW 3:00: Series on Fratello about the development of VPC 7:30: Anoma Watch (hands-on review to come) 8:20: Amida Digitrend 11:40: The B/1 Is An Audaciously Designed Watch By Newcomer Toledano & Chan 15:05: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 17:25: AP Chronicles on the original ref. 5159 25:00: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Mini Royal Oak 29:00: AP Chronicles 20mm Royal Oak from 1997 37:35: Patek Philippe Museum 44:30: Raúl Pagès Turns The Page With His Old-School Régulateur à Détente 45:30: Steel Patek Philippe 96 Sector Dial at Sotheby's 46:30: The 'Imperial Patek Philippe' Owned By The Last Emperor Of China Sells For $6.2 Million 47:45: Buying, Selling, Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction

New Watches From Audemars Piguet And More; A Visit To The Patek Philippe Museum

In this week's episode, I'm running the three-man weave with Ben and James. I gave the guys a bit of homework before we recorded. Last month, Ben mentioned in his review of the Rolex "Le Mans" Daytona that maybe we should do "A Week On (An Owner's) Wrist" reviews every once in a while. Talking about – and reviewing – watches that we've recently acquired. I thought it was a pretty good idea (nice, Ben!), so I called him up and said "Let's do it on the pod!" Of course, I had to get James in the mix as well to keep us grounded in reality (and Seiko). So each of us came ready to talk about two watches we've recently acquired. Why we bought them, what we like about them, and what we'd change if we could. We cover basically the entire range of watches, from Swatch to Seiko to maybe the hottest indie around.  1:30: Financial Times Luxury Live Summit 3:00: In-Depth: Marc Newson Opens Up About Ikepod, The Pathbreaking '90s Watch Brand That's Cool All Over Again; Marc Newson Hourglass for Hodinkee 6:30: Ben's Watch Spotting at the Universal Geneve Meetup That Tony Definitely Read 7:50: Wind Vintage Universal Geneve Film Compax 9:40: Hands-On With (That Other) Universal Genve Film Compax 10:50: Ben's A Week On The Wrist With The Le Mans Daytona 14:50: James' A Week On The Wrist With The Tudor Pelagos 39 16:40: Blancpain x Swatch Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms 21:50: The Unimatic Carbon Limited Editions for Hodinkee 23:45: Hodinkee's first capsule collection with Unimatic 24:35: The 36mm Unimatic Modello Cinque 24:50: The Unimatic x Massena Lab Modello Cinque 26:10: Introducing: Rexhep Rexhepi Returns With A Sequel To The Award-Winning Chronomètre Contemporain 27:00: Ben's November 2023 Photo Report from Geneva 29:28: In-Depth: Gruebel Forsey Signature 1 32:15: Only Watch 2024 Auction Results 34:00: Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer 38:10: Watches in the Wild: Thailand: Episode 1 38:45: Hodinkee's 10 Favorite Seikos of All Time 40:40: James' Review Of The New Seiko "24MAS" Divers 42:58: James' A Week On The Wrist With the Seiko SPB143 44:30: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue, Monopusher And All 47:00: A Collector's Guide To 1970s Cartier Watches

Reviewing 6 Of Our Own Watches With Ben And James

Today on the podcast I'm thrilled to have two legendary collectors and dealers join me, Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg. Of course, Eric is no stranger to Hodinkee, having appeared on the site, Talking Watches, and this podcast. He got his start as a vintage watch dealer, soon founding 10Past10 back in 2005. Most recently, he co-founded the online auction site Loupe This in 2021. He's since become known for his expertise in Rolex, Cartier, and pretty much all things vintage. Eric's Loupe This co-founder is today's other guest, Justin Gruenberg. Justin is a second-generation watch and jewelry dealer from L.A., and since joining the family business he also founded the vintage dealer The Keystone. Justin is widely admired for his wide taste that runs the gamut from vintage to modern, sport to dress, and everything in between. Both of these guys have a keen eye, great taste, and extensive about watches. In today's episode, we discuss the most recent auctions and the market more broadly, what dealers and auctions can do better, and get into the nitty-gritty with vintage Patek, Rolex, and Cartier. We also have a little fun – I get both of the guys to tell me what watch they'd love to snag from the other's collection. Thanks as always for listening, and make sure to hit the show notes to follow along with some of the watches we discuss.  00:01: Loupe This 3:00: The Keystone 4:40: Acquired LVMH podcast 8:00: Seven Things I Learned From The Spring Watch Sales And Trying To Make Sense Of The Up-And-Down 'Market' 8:40: Patek 1463 at Antiquorum Geneva that sold for CHF 293,750 10:10: Christie's Geneva Watch Auction Postponed Until Tuesday Due To Cyberattack; Potential Bidders Encouraged To Contact Christie's 11:20: Hands-On With Formula 1 Legend Michael Schumacher's Watches Ahead Of The Christie's Sale 12:10: Unique Patek Philippe Steel Sonnerie Minute Repeater Sells For $17.3 Million In Return Of Only Watch 15:50: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime For Only Watch 2019 Sells For CHF 31 Million, Becoming The Most Expensive Watch In The World 23:30: The Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock Sells For CHF 9.5 Million At Only Watch 2021 32:10: AP Chronicles 35:20: The "gold albino" Rolex Daytona 6265 that passed at Phillips 35:30: A Close Encounter With Just The Third Of Its Kind: Hands-On With The Legendary Albino Daytona 41:10: Eric's "PSA" Instagram post about fake Rolex stone dials 49:10: Dealers Alessandro "Mr. A" and Peluco on Instagram 52:10: Justin's Decagonal Cartier London watch 52:50: Eric's Cartier London Tank Cintree 56:50: Jay-Z wearing the Rolex "modified" by "Franck Muller", and Franck Muller's Rolex school watch as seen in an old auction catalog 1:01: Hermes Acquired podcast

Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg (Loupe This)

In today's episode, I tapped our style editor Malaika Crawford, client advisor Rich Fordon, and video producer Jonathan McWhorter on for a Q&A.; Some of the questions we take on:What other brands should release a Cartier Privé-style collection that taps into its heritage, and which brands should not;Our thoughts on the TAG Heuer x KITH Formula 1;Whether brands and stylists have ruined watch spotting at red carpet events like the Met Gala;Finally, Since Rich was on his way to Geneva for the spring auctions, we talk about how to navigate the sometimes scary world of auctions.Before we get to the Q&A;, we also touched on our 21st Century Fantasy Draft from a few weeks ago. We announce the winner, and then Rich and Malaika tell us about all the amazing watches from the past 24 years we should've included.  2:40: 21st Century Fantasy Draft 5:11: Introducing: Richard Mille RM07-01 5:20: Introducing: The Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal 11:00: The modern Movado Super Sub Sea 12:45: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Its Second Vintage Capsule Of 'The Collectibles' 13:23: Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Updates Its Complicated Duometre Collection With A Trio Of New Watches 14:53: Hands-On: With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph 15:03: Ben Clymer on His JLC Tribute to 1931 Reverso 15:20: Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph 19:26: What This Vintage Cartier Tank Cintrée Tells Us About The Future Of Restoration 20:35: Introducing: The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 21:25: Introducing: Audemars Piguet Brings Back The Starwheel 23:10: Only Watch Auction Results 2024 31:40: Introducing: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith: A '90s Icon Revived (Live Pics) 40:20: Watch Spotting At The Met Gala 2024 41:00: Hollywood Pay-To-Play Has Drained The Fun Out Of The Red Carpet

Hidden Gem Watches

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