Do you have any idea how much it actually costs to make your clothes? Most brands would rather you didn't. Meet the fashion disruptor who is happy to tell you exactly what it costs his company to make its products, and exactly how much profit they make on each style. Michael Preysman founded Everlane on the concept of "radical transparency" and says: “We believe our customers have a right to know how much their clothes cost to make. We reveal the true costs behind all of our products—from materials to labor to transportation—then offer them to you, minus the traditional retail markup.” Why is transparency important in the fashion industry? How does that idea apply when it comes to garment workers and factory supply chains? How did this Californian start up become a major global player, and what drives Michael Preysman? In this interview we discuss what it takes to succeed, the power of disruption, and being okay with not being perfect.  Check out the shownotes on https://thewardrobecrisis.com/podcast for links and more info. Enjoying Wardrobe Crisis? Get in touch with Clare on Instagram and Twitter (@mrspress) and let her know. Please consider rating and reviewing us in Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen.   
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Everlane's Michael Preysman - Radical Transparency & Beyond

WARDROBE CRISIS is a fashion podcast about sustainability, ethical fashion and making a difference in the world. Your host is author and journalist Clare Press, who was the first ever Vogue sustainability editor. Each week, we bring you insightful interviews from the global fashion change makers, industry insiders, activists, artists, designers and scientists who are shaping fashion's future.  Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

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 What do your clothes say about you? Dear listener, I bet you've thought about this before. Fashion is a language in itself. But, what about the language we use to describe - and by extension to include, or to exclude - the people who wear it? Or don't get to wear it? The people we're marketing it to, or employing.
Fashion communication isn't just about the clothes. It's about how we talk to each other.
Meet Lou Croff Blake, a Berlin-based non-binary fashion practitioner, scholar, artist and community organiser. Their work merges queer theory with community-building, advocating for intersectional equity and amplifying the visibility of marginalised genders. Which sounds like a of words! Because it is. Carefully considered words chosen to challenge the dominant narrative.
Open to learn? Join us on a deep dive on DIEB - diversity, inclusion, equity and belonging - as we consider the existential question: do we really want to build a more ethical fashion industry? If so, doesn't that have to be one where everyone can feel a true sense of belonging? 
Check the shownotes for links & further reading. Tell us what you think!   Can you help us spread the word ? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.  We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free. If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify.  Thank you! Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Lou Croff Blake Talks Pronouns, Fashion For Every Body and the Language of Belonging Beyond the Gender Binary

Can fashion lift its inclusivity game? When 28-year-old British model Junior Bishop - who just so happens to be a wheelchair user - spoke at the Houses of Parliament recently, she called on the fashion industry to do more to tackle its disability access issues. Levelling the playing field is integral to the wellbeing economy - what’s the point of only some of us get to have our wellbeing considered?
“When looking at fashion and media today,” said Junior, diversity and representation are gradually improving. That’s important. “We hope to simply see people who look like us - our ‘imperfections’, our ‘flaws’, the little things that make us who we are.” Also, purely from the economic rationale, how do brands expect to sell to people who don’t see themselves in campaigns?
As Junior acknowledged: “The excitement of being able to see someone who is a wheelchair user, a cane user despite their age, has a limb difference, has Down syndrome, has albinism, the list goes on… Having those with disabilities or their family members tearfully say ‘I didn’t know people like us could do that kind of thing’; that is why this movement needs to continue to grow." Representation is an important first step, but we can’t stop there.
This inspiring conversation, packed with practical advice and emotional intelligence, comes with a call to action: want to do better on this stuff? Ask disabled people what they need!
Check the shownotes for links & further reading. Tell us what you think!   Can you help us spread the word ? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.  We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free. If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify.  Thank you! Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Access Some Areas? Model Junior Bishop on Fashion's Disability To-Do List

Rich, white and privileged - the creative arts sector has a class problem. Particularly in class-obsessed Britain, where middle-class people are twice as likely to work in creative jobs than their working class contemporaries. According to the Evening Standard, "the worlds of TV, film, music and the arts are dominated by straight, able-bodied white men living in London, despite them only accounting for 3.5% of the [UK] population."
Not that this is purely a UK problem. In New York, 85% of artists represented by commercial galleries are white. In Australia, where one in four of us were born overseas, culturally and linguistically diverse creatives are still barely represented in fashion at all. And consider the global luxury brands, with their spate of recent cookie-cutter creative director hires - can anyone actually tell the difference between these men from their photos alone?
But, "What about the new editor at Vogue?" I hear you say. Too often, the celebrated hire is still the only Black or brown person in the room.
I bet you can think of a thousand places where career progress is affected by your postcode, where you went to school and what your parents did. And lurking behind all that: race, gender, sexuality, difference, not to mention how much cash you've got...
It's time for a power shift!
Meet Rahemur Rahman, a British-Bengali artist, educator and designer who is determined to change the system, not simply tinker round the edges of representation. He made it, despite the odds. Raised in working class Tower Hamlets, he studied fashion at Central Saint MartinsHe studied fashion at Central Saint Martins, where he now teaches. Designs from his debut London Fashion Week collection menswear collection were acquired by the V&A; Museum. Now, he's the director of training and development at Bari, a new incubator supporting South Asian creatives in East London as part of the British Bangladeshi Fashion Council.
This is a lively conversation about what it takes to, practically, turn things around - not just talk about it. Hint: no true diversity and inclusion without addressing the class barrier! We're also talking the creative innovation meets heritage craft, social impact fashion, holidays with friends, and the joy of working on what matters.
Check the shownotes for links & further reading. Tell us what you think!   Can you help us spread the word ? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.  We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free. If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify.  Thank you! Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Are You Posh & White Enough for a Career in the Creative Arts? Rahemur Rahman on Strategies for System Change

We all know clothes have meaning, beyond just looking nice. We’ve often talked on this podcast about the importance of how they are made. This week, we’re considering how fashion’s meaning stretches beyond supply chains and our wardrobes, to shape our culture and the way we see ourselves collectively. How does fashion see itself when it comes to race and privilege? How about the male gaze?
Clare sits down with Caryn Franklin, journalist, style icon, fashion citizen (not consumer, please!), one-time presenter of The Clothes Show and all-time national treasure. These days her work centres on education and activism - she’s a visiting professor of diverse selfhood at Kingston School of Art, in London, and gained her MSc in applied psychology specialising in selfhood, objectification, inclusivity and gender bias.
Partly, this interview is a personal one about a life in clothes but it’s also a provocation: How can we use fashion as a vehicle for positive self-esteem, rather than allowing it to make too many of us feel small, too much of the time?
All up, rollocking good chat with Caryn Franklin, MBE. Enjoy!
Check the shownotes for links & further reading. Tell us what you think!   Can you help us spread the word ? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.  We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free. If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify.  Thank you! Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress 
 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Caryn Franklin, Beyond The Clothes Show - Fashion, Identity, Representation and Belonging

How much is enough? How can creatives incorporate the idea of sufficiency in their output? If you make physical objects, what does it really mean to be sustainable in your practice? And, how can you, as my guest this week, Richard Malone, puts it, "do your own thing and stick to it" in the context of fashion's relentless push for newness?
Also, where does class and privilege play into all this? Does Fashion with a capital ‘F’ actually want to be more inclusive and welcoming? Or is all the talk of breaking down the barriers just lipservice? The fact is: many of the people who “make it” in fashion have an had a head start. You only have to look at the current obsession with Gen Z nepo babies. Let's not pretend the playing field is level.
Richard Malone is queer London-based, Irish fashion designer, artist and maker, whose work challenges subtly a system that's built on unfair advantages. A thought-provoking conversation about everything from colonisation and the loss of Irish craft traditions, to what fashion shows are really for!
Check the shownotes for links & further reading. Tell us what you think!   Can you help us spread the word ? Wardrobe Crisis is an independent production.  We don't believe in barriers to entry and are determined to keep this content free. If you value it, please help by sharing your favourite Episodes, and rating and reviewing us in Apple or Spotify.  Thank you! Find Clare on Instagram @mrspress   Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Everlane's Michael Preysman - Radical Transparency & Beyond

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