Matt Pincus is a climber’s climber, deeply committed to the sport and the community. He’s also the content manager and head coach / trainer at TrainingBeta, and a Blister alumn. Suffice it to say, when it comes to improving your climbing, the guy knows his stuff. Since the days back when he and I used to trade notes while reviewing gear, he has taken his life on the road, climbing as much as possible and sharing his wisdom and experience with others through coaching sessions and writing. We caught up recently to talk about what he’s learned along the way, how it’s shaped his climbing, and what his perspective is on the trendiness of “training.” TOPICS & TIMESIntro (0:00)Bivouac Coffee (1:50)How Matt transitioned to being a full-time climber (3:00)How do you stay psyched to train? (6:50)What's your motivation for climbing hard? (12:20)Has the trend in training over-emphasized hang boarding and under-emphasized technique? (15:45)What's Matt's own training approach? (24:00)What's fun about coaching other people? (29:10)Bouldering as movement distilled (36:00)Importance of skin maintenance (41:50)Quality training instead of over-training (45:30)How would you summarize your ideas about training? (48:01)What the biggest change happening in climbing? (57:00)Outro (59:50)
 Presented by Rhino Skin Solutions Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Matt Pincus of TrainingBeta

This is the podcast from BLISTER (blisterreview.com) that is dedicated to the community and culture that surrounds rock climbing. We cover the major events, prominent trends in the sport, gear and equipment, and the individuals that make the climbing world so colorful. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Sports

Health & Fitness

We talk to Tommy Caldwell and Access Fund Policy Director, Erik Murdock, to discuss a massive public lands bill that’s moving through congress called the Natural Resources Management Act. We dive into what makes it so important, hear about Tommy’s involvement with the Access Fund, then Erik helps us unpack the Natural Resources Management Act — what it is, how it was created, and why it matters to climbers. TOPICS & TIMES:Why Tommy got involved with the Access Fund (1:41)What’s in the National Resources Management Act? (2:19)How did it achieve bipartisan support when so little does? (6:20)Which parts have the biggest impact on climbers? (11:24)What is the Land and Water Conservation Fund? (13:40)Ways for climbers to be better advocates (16:30)Other exciting projects with the Access Fund (20:32)Plans for Climb the Hill 2019 (22:25) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Erik Murdock and Tommy Caldwell on the Natural Resources Management Act

What’s the biggest environmental impact we have as climbers? It’s easy to be distracted by the obvious stuff: chalk marks, cat holes, bolts. But, as journalist J.B. MacKinnon points out, the reality is much more complicated. Longtime climber J.B. Mackinnon is a contributor to The New Yorker on ecology and consumer issues. He has written several award-winning nonfiction books including The 100 Mile Diet and The Once and Future World, and he is now working on a book on consumerism in the outdoor industry. In this conversation, we talk about the places climbing has the greatest environmental impact, how this has changed over the decades, and how we as a community can reduce our footprint. (MacKinnon's website and work) TOPICS & TIMESMacKinnon’s free soloing experience (1:40)What are the biggest environmental issues within climbing culture? (6:25)What are the underlying costs of consumer culture? (8:45)How is the outdoor industry different from other consumer industries? (10:06)What climbing equipment is most problematically produced and marketed? (14:28)On the importance of community-wide conversation (18:50)How do we decide to leave certain cliffs as ecosystems? (21:25)How do we prioritize climbing locally? (23:30)How do we get brands to do a better job? (28:20) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Climbers' Environmental Impact with Author J.B. MacKinnon

Erick Davidson makes the best cams that you’ve never heard of — they aren’t sold in stores or online, and Davidson’s company, Merlin Rock Gear, doesn’t even have a website. Erick, a mechanical engineer by day, designs and fabricates large-format cams that are much larger than Black Diamond’s number 6 Camalot, and that cover sizes way beyond what is protectable with more common commercial cams. And because of some clever engineering and expert construction, they’re also much lighter than the Valley Giant cams that span similar sizes. Beyond the engineering elements of it all, making your own cams and selling them to people for use in very consequential settings is a much more serious undertaking than making chalk bags, packs, or bouldering pads. So we talk to Erick about the innovations in design he brought to Merlin cams, how he convinced himself that they were safe to use and sell, and where you can pick one up before you find yourself at the base of an unprotectable squeeze chimney. TOPICS & TIMESHow did Erick get started making cams? (2:35)When cams fail, which part is usually breaking? And why? (9:20)What’s different about the stem of Merlin cams? (15:25)How does taking tons of poorly placed whippers affect the cam? (22:53)What do the control horns do? (32:50)Will there be a production run in the future? (39:40)Where does the name “Merlin” come from? (47:20)How can people place an order? (50:05)Has Erick whipped on one of his cams yet? (53:02)What’s the best possible way to boost sales? (58:05) Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Making Homemade Cams: Erick Davidson of Merlin Rock Gear

Are we headed for a future where The Nose (or other well-traveled walls) are headed for a permit system? We started debating this “what if” scenario almost a year ago, prompted by a conversation about the recently established permit system governing the cables route on Half Dome (the standard “hiking” route to the summit). If crowds grow or rescues become frequent, could certain technical routes, such as The Nose, find themselves governed by a system similar to the one used on Half Dome?
Over the past few months we also put this question to several of our guests to bring in some expert perspectives. So for today’s episode, we’ve got American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers explaining why he thinks a permit system is likely, and Alex Honnold and Maury Birdwell making the case against. Even after producing this episode, we’re still deliberating, so we’d love to hear your thoughts or opinions and collect more data! Let us know what you think on this episode’s instagram post. TOPICS & TIMESWhere did the idea for this question come from? (00:35)Phil Powers’ response. (1:35)Why would a permit system make more sense for The Nose than other popular climbs? (2:45)Two scenarios that could lead the park to instate a permit system. (4:25)What might that permit system look like? (9:30)Presented by Rhino Skin Solutions (12:00)Alex Honnold and Maury Birdwell’s response. (13:50)Strengths and weaknesses in their response. (17:25)How practical could a permit system be? (21:10)What are the potential benefits of a permit system? (24:35)Isn’t the rap route another example of adapting to crowding? (25:40)What are our conclusions? (26:50)Outro (31:25)PRESENTING SPONSOR: RHINO SKIN SOLUTIONS Climbing is complex and performing at your limit means bringing many variables together at the right moment. Rhino Skin Solutions makes the best skin care products for keeping your skin dry, healthy, and resilient, which brings one of the most crucial elements of performance under your control. Keeping your skin in good condition not just before a redpoint attempt but throughout the season means more effective training and climbing harder on the wall, it’s as simple as that. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Phil Powers and Alex Honnold on a Permit System for The Nose?

A couple weeks ago, our host Dave Alie and his wife Katie set off to Yosemite with the goal of climbing The Nose, often called The Greatest Rock Climb on Earth. It has a reputation as being accessible to non-elite climbers, yet at least half of the teams who leave the ground end up bailing on Day 1. With the good fortune of a stable forecast, relatively low traffic on the route, and a supportive ground team (helmed by the adventure baby), we succeeded in climbing the route wall-style over three days. Prior to our attempt on The Nose, we had done tons of prep and research, but still had a ton of questions going in. So this episode is a trip report and our chance to answer many of those questions for folks who might want to give The Nose a go. And if you have any questions that we didn’t cover or you’re gearing up for an attempt and want some beta, feel free to reach out to through Blister at (dave@blistergearreview.com) or on Instagram (@hakunaburrata). TOPICS & TIMESBrought to you by Rhino Skin Solutions (00:40)Why Dave and Katie chose to climb in October (4:00)How crowded was the route?When did they first decide they wanted to climb the Nose?Which big walls did they climb in preparation, and why was that so important? (8:50)Climbing as a married couple? (23:20)How did being new parents affect the experience? (28:45)The hazardous ‘Death Block’ at the top of the route (33:32)The importance of the order in which you build anchors (37:15)Best and worst equipment / food to bring? (40:40)Where Dave and Katie passed other teams. (46:20)Why The Nose has a misleading reputation for being easy (47:45)Dave’s advice to listeners for climbing The Nose? (51:33)Lessons from teams who climb in a day and other great resources. (55:00)Is there a consensus approach to handling loose rock on classic routes? (1:00:02)Outro (1:12:20)Check out the show notes to this episode to see photos from the route, including the loose block at the Wild Stance. PRESENTING SPONSOR: RHINO SKIN SOLUTIONS Climbing is complex and performing at your limit means bringing many variables together at the right moment. Rhino Skin Solutions makes the best skin care products for keeping your skin dry, healthy, and resilient, which brings one of the most crucial elements of performance under your control. Keeping your skin in good condition not just before a redpoint attempt but throughout the season means more effective training and climbing harder on the wall, it’s as simple as that. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Matt Pincus of TrainingBeta

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