The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm


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  • After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life.

    Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time national champ. She's currently living in Las Vegas, but before that she was living out of her RV, following the good weather to her favorite bouldering areas. She spent a lot of time this winter in Bishop trying The Swarm, a V13/V14, which we talk about in the interview.

    I've always been a fan of Alex Johnson, and I remember watching her at The Spot competing when she was just a kid really. Her confidence and poise, as well as her incredible strength, have always impressed me.

    What We Talked About
    • Her biggest accomplishments and biggest failures as a climber
  • Which training styles have worked for her and which have not
  • What it was like for her to train with the Euros
  • How she's training for Vail this year (it's a secret so don't tell anyone)
  • How her diet affects her climbing (if at all)
  • Whether or not her hard ascents have been downgraded because she's a female
  • How she balances being friends and fierce competitors with Angie, Puccio and the other girls
  • Related Links
    • Alex's website is www.aj-ontherocks.blogspot.com
  • Alex on Facebook: www.facebook.com/alexjohnsonclimber
  • An article in Rock & Ice about Alex's negative experience training in Europe: "Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile"
  • Support The Podcast
    • This podcast is made possible by the training programs on TrainingBeta here. Check 'em out if you need some help sending!
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  • If you'd like to sponsor the podcast, just email us at [email protected].
  • Listen on iTunes
    • Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE.
  • Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;)
  • Music

    Intro and outro song: Yesterday by Build Buildings 

    Photo

    Portrait of Alex Johnson by Forest Woodward

     

    Thanks for listening!

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    The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training PodcastBy Neely Quinn

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