The Power Company Climbing Podcast

The Power Company Climbing Podcast episodes:

• 04.18.2024

  EXPERT | Udo Neumann on Movement, Learning, and How to Coach Climbing

  Udo Neumann is a climber, performance coach, and motor-learning explorer. He’s the author of several books, including the cult classic Performance Rock Climbing.  He was the German National Team coach from 2009 to 2017, working with several European and World...

  
• 04.14.2024

  TAPED TIPS | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

  Where's the first place your mind goes when you don’t stick a move? If you’re like most climbers, it’s probably your finger strength, or tension, or even your effort, and you’re already considering what hangboard protocol to use or some front...

  
• 04.04.2024

  (BONUS) EXPERT | Will Anglin on Climbing All The Things, the Intersection of Strength and Movement, and the Ultimate Tool

  Will Anglin is one of the founders of Tension Climbing, a company that not only makes training tools, but also is committed to innovation in a way that leads climbers toward mastery over success. In this episode we discuss movement...

  
• 03.28.2024

  BUILDER | Lauren Abernathy is Building Better Climbing Movement Skills with In-Person Sessions

  Lauren Abernathy works hard to be a better climber. In fact, it’s part of her job as owner of Good Spray Climbing to help other people become better climbers, and she walks the walk. For several years she’s worked with...

  
• 03.24.2024

  TAPED TIPS | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers are Missing

  For most of us, climbing looks like this: Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and try to understand why you fell. Pull on, try the move, fall off. Stare at your hands and come up with a...

  
• 03.14.2024

  EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

  Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel...

  
• 03.07.2024

  BOARD MEETINGS | How Much Climbing Skill Is Guaranteed With Experience?

  A common refrain in climbing is that the more you climb, the better you get. But all of us know some old crusty who has been climbing for 45 years and is stuck at mid 5.10. And they have all...

  
• 03.03.2024

  TAPED TIPS | Go Ahead, Grab That Foothold and Be Adaptable

  Go ahead, grab that foothold. I mean, it’s only a foothold until someone uses it as a handhold. Then it’s just a hold. So use it. And if you don’t want to because you’d rather challenge yourself to do it without...

  
• 02.29.2024

  REWIND | BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing

  Today we REWIND back to one of our favorite Board Meetings of all time. We chose this episode because we are spending the next couple months digging deep into movement and learning, and exploring if there might be a better...

  
• 02.22.2024

  EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

  Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move...

  
• 02.15.2024

  EXPERT | Rob Gray on The Gap Between Sports Science Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)

  Rob Gray is an associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s been studying movement and publishing research on it for 25 years. In...

  
• 02.08.2024

  FOCUS | Movement Skills for Climbers

  Introducing: Something new. Something different. Something FOCUSED. Rather than doing what most podcasts do and jumping from subject to subject with each new episode, we’re going to be spending the next couple of months focused on discussing one topic. Through Board...

  
• 02.01.2024

  BOARD MEETINGS | Indoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Outdoors (Bonus Episode)

  Indoor and outdoor climbing have different constraints, and as such, lead you into different solutions for how to interact with that environment. But there are lessons from the climbing gyms that should absolutely be applied to outdoors in order to...

  
• 01.18.2024

  BOARD MEETINGS | Outdoor Climbing Lessons You Should Take Indoors

  Many people view indoor climbing as less serious than climbing outside, but if we're looking to improve, that may be a mistake. There are aspects of climbing outside that lead us into learning specific things that we don't necessarily find...

  
• 01.11.2024

  BOARD MEETINGS | Improved Learning from Podcasts, Books, and Videos

  With more and more information out there, it would seem that we can learn faster and better. But that isn't always the case. In this episode, Kris and Nate discuss why learning is more challenging in our current environment, ways we...

  
• 12.12.2023

  Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin

  Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from...

  
• 11.30.2023

  REWIND | Hazel Findlay on Flow, Attention, and Letting the Body Climb

  Four years ago this month in 2019, Yosemite’s Magic Line, a 5.14 crack originally put up by Ron Kauk and not repeated until more than 20 years later by his son, Lonnie, saw its third ascent. Pushing her limits both...

  
• 11.16.2023

  Jereme Ransick from the RRGCC | If We Own It, They Can’t Close It

  The Red River Gorge Climber’s Coalition was one oof the first climber owned organizations to OWN their local climbing. Now they have the opportunity to purchase a huge tract of land with miles and miles of cliffline. Some existing climbing,...

  
• 11.02.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | Where We Go Wrong When We Get Training Right

  You nailed the training and showed up stronger. Still, things went wrong.   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free...

  
• 10.30.2023

  Lynn Hill, Katie Brown, and the Importance of Climbing History

  The year is 1991.No woman has ever climbed 5.14.One French superstar says that no woman ever will. But Lynn Hill didn’t listen... And years later, Katie Brown wouldn't either.   This is a sample of Episode 1 of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important...

  
• 10.26.2023

  TAPED TIPS | Stop Applying Training Principles to Climbing Performance

  Training principles are important, but when they creep into performance, your climbing will suffer. Nearly every time.   Taped Tips is presented by Power Company Climbing and Plug Tone Audio. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as...

  
• 10.23.2023

  INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

  Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound-designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s...

  
• 10.19.2023

  REWIND | Miguel and Dario Ventura on Life Imitating Art

  If you’re a climber and you haven’t been to Miguel’s Pizza, you probably want to go, or you’ve at least seen a dozen people wearing their t-shirts. Forty years ago, Miguel Ventura moved from Connecticut to Slade, Kentucky and started...

  
• 10.04.2023

  WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Blue Mountains Sport Climbing with Lee Cujes

  Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land down under, boasting thousands of routes. Legendary Australian climber Lee Cujes spent more than 20 years...

  
• 09.21.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | Lowpointing: The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic

  You know what highpointing is, and definitely redpointing, but what about lowpointing? And for those of you who know what we’re talking about, do you actually do it? Chances are, you’re not using this tactic to its full potential, which...

  
• 08.24.2023

  REWIND | Ravioli Biceps on Moonboarding, Process, and Identity

  Five years ago this week, Ravioli Biceps walked into the gym, did his usual detailed warmup, and then set his camera up pointed at the Moonboard. It had only been a year since he'd started climbing on it, and he'd...

  
• 08.17.2023

  TAPED TIPS | Connect the Dots: Where Climbers (and Coaches) are Going Wrong

  There’s more information out there than ever. When I first started Power Company Climbing, there were very few training blogs, no training podcasts for climbers, maybe one other remote climbing coach, and honestly, very few reputable sources for information on...

  
• 08.10.2023

  CONFLICTED | Kneebarring on Boulders

  Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? What if it IS a kneebar boulder? Is it good for training? We're conflicted. And how does Chris Sharma feel about it? This is a bonus Board Meeting episode from our new series, CONFLICTED....

  
• 07.27.2023

  TAPED TIPS | 3 Tips for Training for Climbing Trips

  Training is training is training. You’ve done your homework, you know how to periodize a training plan, you understand set and rep schemes and RPE and autoregulation, you’ve got all the latest tech and warmup tools, and you’ve somehow figured...

  
• 07.20.2023

  REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

  For most climbers, a 100-foot ground fall would be the end of their lives, or at the very least, the end of their climbing careers. Not so for Craig DeMartino. 21 years ago this week, while climbing in Rocky Mountain National...

  
• 07.06.2023

  The Struggle Climbing Show | Tactics

  In this episode, which comes to us from The Struggle Climbing Show podcast, Kris sat down with host Ryan Devlin to talk tactics. Kris took a look at episodes from the show’s second season – which included interviews with some...

  
• 06.29.2023

  REMIX | FAILURE : How Quitting More Leads to Bigger Sends

  As climbers, we fail a lot. And yet, we don’t even like to hear the word. Our ability to return to unsent projects time after time, season after season, along with the deeply ingrained idea that every failure ought to...

  
• 06.22.2023

  REWIND | Paul Piana on Mentorship, Partnership and Big Dreams

  Today we REWIND to this classic episode with living-legend and climbing pioneer Paul Piana himself, 35 years after he and Todd Skinner completed their historic first free ascent of El Cap’s Salathé Wall on June 15, 1988, helping to shape...

  
• 06.08.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | What Pro Climbers Can Learn From Taylor Swift

  Whether you are a pro climber, small business owner, coach, writer, filmmaker or any other entrepreneur in the climbing industry, Taylor Swift has something to teach you. In this Board Meeting, Kris and Nate draw what might seem an odd comparison:...

  
• 05.25.2023

  WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Ten Sleep with Taylor Fragomeni

  Looking to spend your summer sport climbing on gently overhanging crimps on beautiful limestone cliffs? Look no further than Ten Sleep, a picturesque canyon nestled high in the Bighorns of Wyoming offering tons of generously bolted lines up to grades...

  
• 05.18.2023

  REWIND | Jonathan Siegrist on Volume vs. Strength and Climbing as Training

  We begin this REWIND episode a little differently, with a call to Jonathan Siegrist while he was recently in Catalunya, Spain, to find out if he knew why we're releasing this on May 18th. It's an interesting fact about his...

  
• 05.11.2023

  Justin Brown | Skin Care Tips and Myths for Climbers

  When it comes to skincare in the climbing world, Rhino Skin Solutions is the one name you need to know. They’ve got a complete line of products to help you address whatever skin woes you may be having, whether your...

  
• 05.08.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | Things That SHOULD Affect Grades But Don’t (Bonus Episode)

  In an ideal world, grades would be objective and we’d have some universal formula for how they’re decided. But we don't live in an ideal world. In this bonus Board Meeting episode, Part 1 of 2 on grades and what affects...

  
• 04.20.2023

  Josie McKee | Exploring Identity and Discomfort (Part 2)

  In this, the second of two episodes with seasoned big wall climber Josie McKee, she and Kris sit down to discuss how her recent trip to Yosemite turned out – what went well, what didn’t, what she might do differently...

  
• 04.13.2023

  Josie McKee | Sport Climbing to Train for Big Walls and Narrowing Failure (Part 1)

  Josie McKee has been climbing for more than 20 years, racking up speed records, FA’s, and a huge wealth of experience and knowledge in that time. She’s been up El Cap more than 20 times, even working on the YOSAR...

  
• 04.06.2023

  REWIND | Stevie Haston on Climbing 14d at 52 and Common Sense Training

  13 years ago this month, British climbing legend Stevie Haston climbed 14d, for the second time that year, at the youthful age of 52. Even more impressive is the fact that Haston did this after recovering from a snowboarding accident...

  
• 04.03.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | The Pros and Cons of Replicas (Bonus Episode)

  It's all the rage. Watching Will Bosi and Aiden Roberts work on the Burden of Dreams replica is fun, but is it valuable for the rest of us? This episode is the first half of the full episode our Patrons and...

  
• 03.23.2023

  REMIX | EFFORT: How to Try Harder (featuring Bill Ramsey, Jonathan Siegrist, Jason Kehl, Hazel Findlay and More)

  Most of us have never given 100% to an attempt on a rock climb. Most of us just don’t know how. It’s one of the hardest to cultivate components of high performance: effort. So, the big question: How can we all...

  
• 03.09.2023

  McKenzie Long | Climbing and Our Changing Relationship with Public Lands

  McKenzie Long started climbing like many of us did, indoors, in a midwestern climbing gym, far from the vast landscapes and towering rock formations of the American West. But her love of climbing – and dream of becoming a writer...

  
• 03.02.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | 5 Reasons Simple Training is Better with Nadya Suntay

  With the seemingly endless amount of information available online these days, and the newest training trends popping up in reel after reel on our feeds, it can be pretty tough to know what to keep and what to toss when...

  
• 02.16.2023

  WHAT WHEN HOW TO TRAIN | Wild Iris Sport Climbing with Leif Gasch

  Looking for a sport climbing destination where you can climb comfortably from mid-Spring through mid-Fall? Look no further than Wild Iris, with its high elevation, low humidity, and perfectly-pocketed limestone walls. Wyoming local Leif Gasch has been climbing at Wild Iris...

  
• 02.09.2023

  REWIND | Beth Rodden on Parenting, Identity and Climbing

  Nearly 15 years ago, with the FA of her route Meltdown, Beth Rodden gave us one of the hardest crack lines in Yosemite – if not the world – helping to solidify the role women have played in the development...

  
• 02.02.2023

  BOARD MEETINGS | Top Training Considerations for Routesetters with Jess West

  If you already spend 4 or 5 days a week climbing for your job as a setter, is it a good idea – or even just a feasible one – to take on a training program? How do you find...

  
• 01.19.2023

  Patty Law | From Belay Check to Gym Ownership

  Don’t be fooled by Patty Law’s small frame and soft-spoken demeanor – she’s a fierce climber, mother, entrepreneur, and community cultivator. She’s been welcoming climbers through the doors of her gyms and into a thriving Cincinnati climbing community for more...

  
• 01.12.2023

  REWIND | Tommy Caldwell on Belief and Partnership

  In January 2015, 7 years ago this week, I, along with countless others including many non-climbers, was glued to a saga happening on the side of El Cap. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were battling it out on what would...