The trick to fermentation, I learned this week, is to manage a busy, chaotic world of microorganisms, all doing what they must do, as primitive living things - in a way that creates something first, safe, and then utterly delicious. 

Larry Nguyen, who is the Larder Chef at Oregon’s high-end ōkta restaurant, says, “I create environments, little nudges here and there to focus on which reaction I want and to allow those microorganisms to outcompete other food spoilage bacteria.”

After speaking with Larry, I see why he’s so good at this job. It seems to me that  - it seems to me that this is what he’s been doing in kitchens long before he became one of the nation’s preeminent Larder Chefs.  

Larry takes us into the busy, chaotic, high-stress, low profit world of restaurants and speaks passionately about the importance of patience and cultivating people above all else. In a place where frustration, ego, or profit margins constantly threaten a positive outcome, Larry works “to create an environment, little nudges here and there” that supports shared success over the long run and enjoyment along the way. 

The truth is, whenever we’re with people - in our homes, our workplaces, our institutions - we’re in environments that desperately need patient, skillful cultivation of people. Larry, who is humble, quick to laugh, experienced and successful, is the perfect person to share this leadership philosophy with us.

Visit the ōkta Website: ōktaoregon.com

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