Losing track…I summarize my last 6 sessions since the last post. Local has been CHEEKS as far as waves.

#93: Losing track of sessions

Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.

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#93: Losing track of sessions

#93: Losing track of sessions