As famed Israeli chef Yotam Ottolenghi tells it, Abu Shukri has always been considered one of the best hummus restaurants in Israel. One day another place, run by the son-in-law of the original owner, opened across the street sporting a sign that read, “We moved here. This is the real Abu Shukri.” The next day, the old restaurant hung out a sign which read, “We didn’t move anywhere. This is the real Abu Shukri. Shortly thereafter the upstart eatery erected a large banner reading, “The real, one