Featuring: Paul Chai

When I first visited the Burmese city of Yangon ten years ago it was far from sleepy. Soon after arrival I found myself tucking into a spicy salad of fermented tea leaves, or laphet, at 4am in the morning in a bustling night market. Returning recently there has been simultaneously great change and yet it looks very similar. Great hopes for democracy may have been dashed, but street life goes on and the city still has a shambolic charm and a slow pace unlike many of its regional counterparts.

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