The Broad Beta Podcast

Anna Pfaff: For the Joy of Climbing - An Interview


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Our guest is Anna Pfaff - an alpinist and expedition climber, and a critical care nurse. Anna has completed numerous expeditions and put up first ascents all over the world. Her resume includes the Great Trango Tower and The Nameless Tower in Pakistan, Shishapangma in Tibet, Holtana Peak in Antarctica, and most recently a new route on Mt. Providence in the Alaska Range.

Anna became a nurse at 20, moved from rural Ohio to Denver, and accidentally found the thing that would reshape her whole life: climbing. What starts as tagging along to Indian Creek turns into a decades-long pursuit through Yosemite big walls, Patagonia seasons, and a travel nursing lifestyle designed around the mountains. We dig into the realities of making that life work, including stacking shifts, choosing contracts near climbing zones, and building the calm, people-first communication that both nursing and alpine climbing demand.

Then Anna talks to us about her devastating frostbite injury after climbing Mt. Huntington in 2022. After the loss of six toes, she gives herself permission to walk away from climbing entirely. That honesty becomes the doorway back: easy gym laps in approach shoes, relearning balance without a big toe, and rebuilding confidence one small decision at a time. We talk about what risk management looks like after trauma, how partner communication changes, and why “turning around” can be the most professional move you make.

We also get into the less visible side of being a professional climber in the outdoor industry: long-term sponsorship relationships, mentorship projects, guiding, public speaking, and the daily work of showing up as a solid teammate. If you care about alpine climbing, injury recovery, travel nursing, or simply living with more intention, this conversation stays with you. Subscribe, share it with a friend who needs a reset, leave a review, and tell us: what’s your personal rule for knowing when it’s time to keep going or turn back?

https://www.annapfaff.com/

Watch the beautiful short documentary Anna about Anna and her injury

Follow Anna on Instagram @pfaff_anna

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Hosted by Jeannie Wall & Cat Coe

Produced and edited by Cat Coe

www. broadbeta.com

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The Broad Beta PodcastBy Broad Beta