Beauty by the Beaker

This week is all about scalp health. Your itchy, flaky scalp might not be dandruff, and using the wrong treatment could make it worse. In this episode of Beauty by the Beaker, cosmetic chemists Sadie and Natalie explain the difference between dry scalp, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, and psoriasis, plus how to choose a smarter next step.

Learn how scalp oil, aka sebum, and the yeast Malassezia are connected to dandruff and why itching can start before flakes appear. Not all scalp issues are microbial, and this week we discuss how clues like flake texture, redness, your environment, and hair-washing habits may help you understand what’s going on. What makes this distinction important? We explain why dry scalp and dandruff typically call for opposite approaches.

This episode covers the scalp microbiome (and its limited research), over-the-counter dandruff shampoo ingredients, and how treatments such as pyrithione zinc, salicylic acid, selenium sulfide, sulfur, and ketoconazole work. Find out why some ingredients target fungal overgrowth while others help loosen and break up flakes. Learn how to properly use these products, and why letting dandruff shampoo sit on your scalp for a few minutes can matter.

If you’re wondering whether to use a gentle hydrating shampoo, an anti-dandruff treatment, or scalp oil, this practical scalp-care guide can help you avoid common mistakes. Understand when cautious trial and error may be reasonable and when it’s best to see a dermatologist. Remember if your scalp is painful, very inflamed, or symptoms are spreading, it’s best to skip the headache and see a professional for a diagnosis. 

Disclaimer: This episode is for educational purposes and isn’t a substitute for medical advice or a diagnosis from a healthcare professional.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW! 

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Timestamps

(0:00) Welcome back to Beauty by the Beaker

(2:02) Why scalp care is suddenly everywhere

(3:42) What the scalp actually is

(4:08) Hair follicles, sebum, and scalp structure

(4:34) Why do humans have so many scalp follicles

(7:24) The scalp microbiome and Malassezia

(8:38) How microbial balance affects dandruff

(9:05) What dandruff is and why it itches

(10:05) Why itching can appear before flakes

(10:28) Dry scalp versus dandruff

(12:08) How to spot the difference by flakes and symptoms

(13:26) When to see a dermatologist

(13:54) Gentle shampoos and scalp serums for dryness

(14:51) FDA rules for dandruff treatment products

(15:44) Ingredients used in anti-dandruff products

(16:19) Why Nizoral and Differin are special

(17:29) Pyrithione zinc and how it reduces dandruff

(18:26) Salicylic acid and flake removal

(19:19) Why dandruff often needs ongoing management

(19:45) Seborrheic dermatitis and where it can show up

(20:50) Psoriasis treatment options and red flags

(21:18) Why washing less is not always better

(22:20) When trial and error is okay, and when to seek help

(23:21) Rosemary oil and scalp problems

(24:51) Final recap and takeaways

Every once in a while we see pH marketed on labels, but most people have no idea what it actually means - and that confusion is exactly why it has the opportunity to become such a powerful buzzword. If you’ve ever wondered whether “pH balanced” skincare or hair care is worth paying more for, this episode breaks down the science in a way that finally makes sense.

This week we are discussing the power of Hydrogen, and we are doing it in some very conceptual and possibly less than scientific ways. We explain what the pH is, what the scale is based on, and how a tiny shift can represent a 10x change in hydrogen ion concentration. That definitely matters as a chemist when we are formulating products that touch your skin, hair, or scalp, but does it matter as a consumer?

This week you'll discover:

Why pH is logarithmic, and why that makes a difference between pH of 5 and 7 much more significant than it sounds

Where common substances like lemon juice, vinegar, shampoo, skin, soap, and oven cleaner fall on the scale

Why the acid mantle matters for skin health, dryness, and barrier function

When pH really does matter in cleansing, and when it’s mostly a marketing distraction

How acids, surfactants, and product formulas actually behave in water and on skin

Why certain shampoo studies and “low pH” marketing can be misleading, and why formulators already account for these details so consumers usually don’t have to.

The different role of pH in cleansers versus acids like AHAs, BHAs, and functional other skincare ingredients.

If you are curious about how the pH scale works, and why it's important in skincare but don’t have a background in chemistry, this episode is for you.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW!

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

When it comes to curls there is a lot of misinformation, and this week we are setting the record straight. Natalie and Sadie, cosmetic formulation chemists are covering the 3 main misconceptions when it comes to curly hair, and explaining why you might not be treating your hair right. We break down why curl type is a weak predictor of what your hair actually needs, why “wash less” is not universal, and why products do not magically change your curl pattern.

Starting with the origins of curl typing, including its uncomfortable ties to racial classification and the later Andre Walker system that still dominates online charts today. We show why two people with the same curl label can need completely different routines depending on porosity, elasticity, thickness, product load, and how much manipulation their hair gets.

This week we learn:

Why curl typing can be useful for estimating shrinkage and gel-cast behavior, but not for choosing products

Why scalp oil, sweat, climate, and product buildup matter more than curl pattern when deciding wash frequency

How hydrogen bonds and disulfide bonds actually shape what your hair does—and what heat, bleaching, and chemical services can permanently change

Why wet styling, gentle handling, and the right level of hold can enhance your natural pattern without “creating” new curls

We also get into the wavy-versus-curly debate, the fear around brushing dry hair, and the beauty-industry habit of turning pseudoscience into product advice. If you’ve ever been told your hair routine “has” to be done a certain way because of your curl type, this episode gives you permission to stop following rules that do not fit your hair.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW! 

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

 It’s the first official episode of season 2, and we are going to be trying something a little bit different. Mostly because we want to talk about beauty science you are actually interested in, but also because our lives have been a bit crazy, and we needed another week of chatting to give us more time for research. Since we want to give you the most accurate and easy to understand information we possibly can, we typically have to spend a LOT of time researching for each episode, but we only want to do that for topics you have questions about! This week we are telling you the topics we think are HOT in the beauty industry, and giving you a little insider information on why we think they are worth diving into. If any of today's topics interest you, make sure to comment so we know where to start! 

We are cosmetic formulation chemists, and today in the science salon we are covering makeup myths, over(or under)hyped ingredients, laser and light treatments, and so much more! 

Red Light Therapy: It might sound like bologna, but this might actually work! Of course, not all red lights are created equal. As it turns out the wavelength, dosage, and treatment practices can all play a role in the type of benefits you might get from this therapy. 

Peptides: What are these, and what are they doing? Well, that's not such an easy question to answer. What’s actually coming in that unlabeled bottle you bought online? 

Niacinamide: This ingredient may be too common to care about. This vitamin is found in many cosmetics, but is it actually doing anything? Experts are ditching it, and we want to know why. 

Hyaluronic Acid: Or is it Sodium Hyaluronate? What used to be the gold standard for skin hydration has taken somewhat of a fall from grace. So is there a more reliable alternative? 

Pet Cosmetics: Pet grooming aids like shampoo are not regulated by the FDA, so how do you know what's safe to use on our pets? Find out what the people who formulate these products think about the difference in regulation, and similarity to human products. 

‘Toxic’ Ingredients: It's no secret that the EU has banned more cosmetic ingredients than we have in the USA, but is there actually a difference in what is being used in products? We want to dive into the common misconception that your products contain harmful ingredients. 

Benzene: Did someone say harmful ingredients? This is a known human carcinogen, but the problem probably isn’t cosmetics. We want to dive into why this keeps making its way into the spotlight, and what risk it actually poses. 

In Office Treatments: Are these worth the money? And what can these do that topical cosmetics can’t? We have talked about light, so what about lasers? Should we swap notes with a dermatologist? 

Specialized Cosmetics: Are these brands filling a hole in the market, or are they just finding creative new ways to take your money. Sometimes products that you don’t understand are not made for you, but other times there are much cheaper and well studied alternatives for treating actual medical issues. We are giving you a sneak peak at one cosmetic that we find extra audacious.  

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Questions About Your Cosmetics? Call NOW! 

(801) 901-3804

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Happy Birthday BXB!!! This week we are celebrating 1 year of the podcast by reflecting on some of the epic highs and lows of the past, and setting some new expectations for the future. We discuss the unexpected struggles of co-hosting a beauty science podcast, and the desire to stop the spread of misinformation while still appealing to a large audience… which we unfortunately haven’t done yet after a year… but we aren’t ready to stop trying! And although small, we talk about how positive the feedback on the show has been, especially from the people we were most afraid of judgement from. This episode is extra sappy as we reflect on some amazing industry connections we have made, the milestones we have crossed. 

We are diving into one of our most asked questions - how do we have a high quality production without making any money? And Natalie is making a (not so) strict rule on who is NOT invited to the salon. 

Stick around for a new exciting update you’re not going to want to miss! 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Summer isn’t over yet! We have stressed the importance of sunscreen, but how does the sun affect your hair? In this episode we are breaking down the science of UV damage, visible light, melanin, and why some hair fades or weakens faster in the sun. Have you ever wondered if your hair needs sunscreen? Tune in, this episode is for you.

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

In this episode we cover:

How UV light damages hair structure

Why visible light affects hair color

The difference between eumelanin and pheomelanin

Why blonde, bleached, and damaged hair is more vulnerable

Hair protection tips, including hats, scarves, and leave-on products

What to look for in hair UV protectants

Whether you’re looking for science-backed hair care tips, summer hair protection advice, or a deeper understanding of UV and visible light damage, this episode has you covered.

Timestamps

00:00 - Why nobody talks about sun damage to hair

01:40 - Summer, UV index, and the episode’s main question

02:40 - Valerie George’s UV damage lecture as the key reference

04:37 - Hair structure refresher: cuticle, cortex, and medulla

05:42 - Why disulfide bonds matter for hair strength

06:38 - UV light and visible light as the two main forms of damage

07:19 - How melanin protects hair from sunlight

08:41 - Eumelanin vs pheomelanin and why hair color varies

09:33 - Why lighter hair usually fades and damages faster

11:59 - Why eumelanin protects better from UV than pheomelanin

13:09 - Study findings: blonde hair vs dark hair in sunlight

15:45 - UV damage vs visible light damage in hair

17:39 - The chocolate chip cookie analogy for melanin damage

18:07 - Why humidity accelerates sun damage

19:09 - Leave-on products vs rinse-off protection

19:31 - Why hair SPF is not regulated like skin SPF

20:55 - How hair protection is tested and why it is hard to prove

21:15 - Why formulators need special ingredients to help filters stick

22:20 - Why hats and scarves are the best protection

23:37 - Where to find the hosts’ product recommendations and episode notes

25:14 - Closing advice: protect your hair from the sun

#HairCare #UVDamage #SunscreenForHair #HairProtection #BeautyScience #CosmeticChemistry #SunDamage #BlondeHair #HairScience #BeautyByTheBeaker

It’s about time we give you another peak into our vanity shelves!

This week we are spilling the details on our favorite skin and hair care products under $30 (well almost, we need to make one exception for Sadie). As cosmetic formulation chemists we have tried a lot of different products, and are very familiar with all types of ingredients.

Join us in the Science Salon for 10 products we are currently obsessed with. And we know how hard it can be to trust ‘influencers’ but don’t worry, we are scientists. We have no affiliation with any of the brands or products that we are talking about in today’s episode. These are just products that we are actually buying, using and liking.

Remember, we are talking about PERSONAL care, so even though we like these products, they might not be the best options for you. We are cosmetic formulation chemists, so our suggestions are coming from the sensory experience and wearability of skincare products. We do not necessarily support any efficacy claims that the brands are making.

Let us know if you have tried any of these products, or have any products you want our opinions on! We are here to pull back the curtain and expose all your favorite cosmetics.

Nat’s Picks

e.l.f Holy Hydration Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm

Panoxyl Acne Foaming Wash

Thayer’s Hydrating Milky Toner

CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum

Eucerin Age Defense SPF 50 Face Sunscreen

Sadie’s Picks

Reale Actives Pore Power Exfoliating Cleanser

Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

Experiment Beauty Super Saturated Serum

Regimen Labs Glycolide Lipid Repair

Amika Flash Instant Shine Mask for Shiny Hair

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources!

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music, and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Are you ready for perfect hair?

Good, because this episode is your scientifically proven guide to perfect hair! .. well… sort of.

As it turns out, hair isn’t super vital, and for that reason, there hasn’t been a very strong push for rigorous scientific evaluation. But today we have the closest thing we are going to get to a hair expert, Sadie!

Sadie performs microscopic hair analysis, and writes up a customized report, detailing everything you could need to know about your hair. She has looked at thousands of hairs under a microscope, and through this research has seen common hair issues, and today she is sharing the solutions.

This week we are back in the science salon, and we are here to solve your hair horrors. First we are covering the basics and talking all about the hair structure. Then we dive into the most frequent issues when it comes to hair. The solution may be more simple than you think!

Want your hair analyzed under a microscope? Use code BXB10 for $10 a custom Hair Analysis from Sadie's business, Strandprint!

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

What ingredients are in your lash serum? And is it really worth the risk? 

Long, luscious lashes are a beauty goal for many, but do you really know what's happening when you use those popular eyelash serums? This week we are diving into an unlikely lash lengthener that was discovered while treating glaucoma. We are telling you everything you need to know about prostaglandin analogs. These ingredients not only stimulate lash growth but can also cause side effects like eye color darkening and sunken under-eye fat. In this eye-opening episode, cosmetic chemists Natalie and Sadie explain the science behind lash enhancers, revealing why they're effective and how they might do more harm than good.

We cover: 

How prostaglandin analogs influence your hair growth cycle to produce longer, thicker lashes

The truth about the only FDA-approved lash serum, Bimatoprost (Latisse), and its risks

Why ingredients like peptides and oils might be safer, yet less dramatic, alternatives

The potential danger of prostaglandin analogs causing your eye fat to shrink and your iris to darken

Practical tips to protect your eyelashes and avoid undesired side effects, focusing on more sustainable routine habits.

This episode is great for beauty enthusiasts who want that fluttery lash look without risking their eye health. 

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Science Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Timestamps:

00:00 - The chemistry behind lash serums and their effects

00:40 - The biology of eyelash phases and how serums extend growth

02:14 - Side effects: fat loss under the eyes and eye discoloration

03:02 - Glaucoma, prostaglandin analogs, and their accidental lash-growing effects

04:17 - The mechanism of prostaglandin analogs on eyelashes and eye health

05:09 - FDA-approved lash ingredients versus marketing claims

06:02 - The eyelash growth cycle and how serums hijack the process

07:27 - How prostaglandin analogs can cause eyelid and eye color changes

08:27 - Reversibility of fat loss and risks of eye pigmentation

09:25 - Safe lash practices and alternative products

10:11 - Summary of risks and safety tips for users of lash serums

11:04 - Making your lashes appear longer with makeup tricks

12:12 - Practical advice for protecting natural lashes and monitoring side effects

13:40 - The importance of clinical evidence in choosing lash serums

14:25 - Everyday habits influencing lash health and longevity

15:46 - Final safety considerations and product recommendations

16:36 - Enhancing lash appearance with makeup techniques

17:00 - Final thoughts

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.

Exosomes are rapidly becoming the hottest buzzword in skincare, but what do we really know about their power? Are they the regenerative breakthrough they're made out to be, or simply a clever marketing tactic? If you're curious about whether products claiming to harness these tiny cellular messengers are worth your hard-earned money, this episode is for you!

As cosmetic chemists, we cut through the hype to explain what exosomes are, and more importantly, what they aren’t. We are breaking down the science behind these cell signaling vesicles, why their source (human, plant, bacteria, or fungus) matters immensely, and what current research really says about their ability to improve skin. We dive into the biggest misconceptions, including the limitations of topical delivery, the regulation hurdles, and why the price tags often don’t match the proven benefits.

We explain the different sources of exosomes, and explore the promising data behind human-derived strains from blood and stem cells, but of course we also highlight just how early-stage and inconclusive most studies remain. We cover some questionable delivery methods like microneedling, patches, and other in-office procedures that might enhance absorption, and why many topical products may never penetrate a healthy skin barrier effectively.

Without proper regulation and solid science, many products may be more about impression than efficacy. And we obviously need to cover the regulations, so we highlight how unsubstantiated claims cross into unapproved drug territory, putting consumers at risk. Understanding these nuances helps you make smarter choices, avoid wasted money, and set realistic expectations for skin ‘rejuvenation.’

Welcome to Beauty by the Beaker, the podcast where Sciences Gets a Hot New Makeover! We're two cosmetic chemists who want to reveal what really goes into your favorite products. Join us in the Science Salon! Whether you’re a skincare enthusiast, a curious consumer, or just tired of being told coconut oil cures everything, you’re in the right place. Let's gossip about all things beauty together! Pull up a chair, your appointment's about to start.

Timestamps:

00:00 - What are exosomes and why they're key in skincare marketing

02:00 - How exosomes function as cell-to-cell messengers

03:30 - Different sources of exosomes: human, plant, bacteria, and fungi

05:00 - The significance of exosome source on their messaging and effectiveness

07:00 - Challenges of topical delivery and clinical methods to bypass the skin barrier

10:00 - Regulatory status: FDA approval and legal concerns around exosome claims

14:00 - Evidence supporting the use of human-derived exosomes in skincare

16:00 - The potential and limitations of bacteria and plant-derived exosomes

22:00 - Cost implications: why certain products are more expensive and what that indicates

26:00 - Formulation hurdles: stability, storage, and ensuring activity over shelf life

30:00 - Efficacy expectations: what current science can and can't promise

36:00 - Practical advice: whether to invest in exosome products or opt for proven treatments

38:00 - The primary target of skin aging treatments - sun protection and retinoids

39:00 - Final thoughts: the future of exosome research and regulatory developments

Visit our website to read more about this episode and check out our blog post with more sources.

www.beautyxbeaker.com

Join us on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and Youtube!

@beautyxbeaker

@natbxb

@sadiebxb

Contact us at [email protected]

Special thanks to Flip Twogood for our photos and music and Hailey Romero for our branding.