On this episode of The Sauce Podcast, host Lauren sits down with Bethany Budde-Cohen — owner of SqWires Restaurant & Market — to celebrate 25 years of one of Lafayette Square’s most beloved dining destinations and the story behind its lasting success.

Bethany shares how she transformed a 130-year-old wire factory into a warm, character-filled restaurant, and the challenges that came with it — from construction setbacks and a major fire to navigating recessions and a global pandemic. Through it all, SqWires has remained rooted in its identity: elevated Midwestern comfort food, local sourcing, and a deep connection to the neighborhood.

They talk about what’s kept SqWires thriving for over two decades, including house-smoked staples, a strong relationship with local farmers, and a commitment to consistency while still evolving with the times. Bethany also dives into the return and reinvention of the market concept during COVID, and how it’s become a curated, community-focused space for fresh, local goods.

Beyond the food, the conversation highlights the importance of family in the business — including Bethany’s daughter stepping into a leadership role — and what it means to grow something that’s truly part of the fabric of St. Louis.

From historic spaces to homemade herbs, from resilience to reinvention — this episode is all about building something that lasts.

In this episode:

•  The story behind SqWires Restaurant & Market 
•  Transforming a historic wire factory into a restaurant 
•  Overcoming a fire, delays, and economic challenges 
•  What defines “elevated Midwestern” cuisine 
•  House-smoked meats, brunch staples, and menu favorites 
•  Sourcing local ingredients and working with farmers 
•  The return and evolution of the SqWires market 
•  Adapting through COVID and changing customer needs 
•  Running a family business with the next generation 
•  Why Lafayette Square is such a special community 

Come for the conversation. Stay for the culture. 🌿
 ✨ Presented by SWADE Dispensary, with 12 locations across Missouri. Learn more at swadecannabis.com. Our other podcast sponsors are 4 Hands Brewing Co. and LHM.

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