Design and Fabrication

Building a Craftsman Style Staircase and Handrail

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In this episode, I help a Colorado Springs Client remodel their staircase. The existing staircase was a straight run with an outdated style. I redesigned it to have open-ended steps with a craftsman handrail.

Summary
 Building a Custom Staircase with a Handrail

When a client wanted to modernize their outdated staircase to match their new hickory flooring, I took on the challenge of transforming it into an open-ended tread design with a custom handrail. Here’s how I tackled the project—from demolition to final installation.

Assessing the Existing Staircase

The original staircase had a dated design that didn’t complement the new flooring. The clients wanted an open-ended tread style, which required significant modifications. Before installation, I had to:

  • Remove the old treads (which were dadoed into the skirt board).
  • Cut new stringers.
  • Reframe sections of the wall to support the new structure.

    • Since the drywall corners were fragile after demolition, I reinforced them by sliding in new framing between the stringers and drywall and securing it to the existing studs.

    Fabricating Custom Components

    To ensure a seamless fit, I pre-fabricated most of the staircase components in my workshop.

    1. Crafting the Treads

      2. While custom-sized treads could be ordered, local millwork shops couldn’t accommodate the exact specifications needed to wrap around the existing walls. So, I milled my own:

      • Glued up stock to the required thickness.
      • Used a router with a large nosing bit to shape the front edge.
      • Clipped the corners at the table saw to reduce router load and prevent tear-out (hickory is prone to splintering).
      • Used feather boards at the router table for a clean, consistent profile.

        • For the open-ended treads, I cut miters on the table saw. The bottom tread required a notch for the newel post, so I:

        • Attach the center nosing with dominoes and glue.
        • Pre-cut the miter on a longer piece before trimming it to length for safety.
        • Tacked the return in place with brad nails.
          1. Constructing the Newel Post

            2. To match the home’s existing door panel design, I built a newel post with the illusion of floating panels:

            • Ripped and laminated quarter-sawn stock.
            • Added mitered corner trim (held together with glue tape since clamps wouldn’t work on such thin pieces).
            • Pre-finished the post before installing the trim to prevent raw wood exposure from seasonal movement.
            • Used a headless pin nailer for a clean, nearly invisible installation.

              • The post featured three horizontal rails (bottom, middle, and top) to match the home’s interior doors. For consistency, I used a spacer block to align the middle rails perfectly.

              1. Creating the Post Cap

                2. The decorative cap required precise miter cuts to meet cleanly in the center. I:

                • Used a shop-made vertical sled to hold the workpiece.
                • Cut cross-grain first to minimize tear-out, then with the grain for a smooth finish.
                • Reset the saw blade to 90° to cut decorative shoulders.
                • Installed with glue and brad nails, trimming the underside with cove molding.
                  • Prepping the Spindles

                  With 20 spindles and cross braces to assemble, efficiency was key:

                  • Jointed, planed, and squared each spindle.
                  • Cut angled cross braces using a shim clamped near the table saw blade to prevent kickback.
                  • A stop block and miter gauge were used for repeatable cuts.
                    • Joinery with the Domino

                    While some woodworkers debate using a Domino joiner, it was a game-changer for this project. With 72 mortises needed for the cross braces, it saved hours of work. I:

                    • Built jigs with angled stop blocks for consistent placement.
                    • Pre-finish spindle assemblies before glue-up to avoid staining difficulties later.
                    • Routed oblong dowel holes in the spindle bases for slight adjustability during installation.
                      • Final Assembly & Installation

                      Once all components were ready, I:

                      • Assembled spindle units using a jig aligned with the staircase’s rise and run.
                      • Attached spindles to treads with dowels.
                      • Installed custom-milled handrail (a complex profile best left to a professional millwork shop).
                        • Lessons Learned
                        • Hickory is tricky—it splinters easily, so careful milling and routing techniques are essential.
                        • Pre-finishing saves time—staining and sealing components before assembly prevents missed spots.
                        • Always check building codes—misinformation is common, so refer to official sources to avoid costly mistakes.
                          • The Finished Staircase

                          The final result was a sleek, modern staircase that perfectly complemented the home’s new flooring. Every custom detail—from the handrail to the newel post—was crafted for both aesthetics and durability.

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                          Design and FabricationBy Benham Design Concepts