The UK Government has been accused of acting as the "promotional wing" of the multinational salmon farming industry, after a minister appeared to bow to pressure to serve more farmed salmon at government receptions.
The Ferret can reveal that industry leaders lobbied the Scotland Office minister, Kirsty McNeill, at a meeting in September 2024 for "greater supply of Scottish salmon" at government events. She replied she was "keen to see this".
Minutes of the meeting released under freedom of information law also show salmon company bosses complaining about "fractured" regulation and delays to export health certificates. They called for "a more enlightened approach on immigration" to attract fish farm workers to Scotland.
The Scotland Office's role in helping to "spin a glossy PR story" was described as "deeply troubling" by the Scottish Greens. They said farmed salmon should "stay off the menu" at government events.
Campaigners argued that farmed salmon were frequently dosed with "highly toxic chemicals" and had "an appalling environmental record". It was "bizarre" the UK Government wanted to serve a product subject to "systematic greenwashing", they claimed.
But the industry insisted that the government was right to "showcase" Scottish salmon and help to boost sales. The product was an "extraordinary success story" enjoyed in nearly 50 countries, it argued.
The Scotland Office defended its support for the salmon industry as a vital part of its plan for economic growth. It said Scottish salmon was the "jewel in the crown" of Scotland's produce.
As part of its major investigation - Who Runs Scotland - The Ferret revealed on 8 April the extent to which oil, whisky and other industries lobbied the Scotland Office. We have also reported in detail on the public relations firms that help businesses influence ministers.
Who's winning friends and influencing people at the Scotland Office?
On 11 September 2024 in London, McNeill and two of her senior officials met Atholl Duncan and Tavish Scott, respectively the chair and chief executive of the industry body, Salmon Scotland. Also present were executives from two big salmon farming companies, Mowi and Bakkafrost, as well as Alan Roden from the PR firm, Quantum Communications.
The official minute of the meeting released by the Scotland Office disclosed that it ended with the industry pressing for more of its salmon to be served at government events.
"Finally Salmon Scotland said that they would welcome greater supply of Scottish salmon at UK Government/Scotland Office events," the minute recorded.
"Minister McNeill said that she was keen to see this but that catering procurement across government was not centralised and so the Scotland Office would need to see how best to take that away."
Scottish salmon has been served at government events in the past, including the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow in 2021 and at St Andrews Day receptions at Holyrood and the British Embassy in Paris in 2023.
Earlier in the meeting, Bakkafrost said that "the regulatory environment for salmon production in Scotland was too fractured", and didn't include incentives for investment. The company argued that "there should be good regulation, not more regulation".
The industry also complained that problems with export health certificates were delaying salmon exports. According to the minute, Bakkafrost said "the international competitiveness of Scotland has eroded" and "its share of the global market has diminished".
In addition, salmon companies highlighted a need for foreign workers. "The industry is looking for a more enlightened approach on immigration, to make Scotland more attractive to workers from elsewhere," Salmon Scotland's Tavish Scott was reported to have said.
The meeting with the Scotland Office was on the same day as a salmon industry "breakfast briefing" for MPs at Westminster, hosted by the Labour MP for Na h-Eileanan an Iar, Torcuil Crichton.
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