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Colors of Soave Master Class


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In September I had the pleasure of attending a Colors of Soave Master Class hosted by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein and Giovanni Ponchia, at Nostra Spaghetteria in San Francisco. Having attended last year's Soave class I was keen on seeing what was to be learned at Soave 2.0. Evan ever the professional did not disappoint. This class focused on the soils and site differences in the Soave region. Having worked at several wineries in Northern Italy, Giovanni serves as an enologist and marketing ambassador for the Soave Consorzio Tutela. The Soave Consorzio's mission is to promote Soave wines. In San Francisco there are typically only a few handful of days where the mercury approaches ninety plus and this was one of them. I could not think of a better way to spend a sizzling afternoon than sipping the wonderful Cru Soaves that were on hand.  The Soave region twelve miles due east of Verona, in north eastern Italy,  with the hills of Valpolicella flanking its left shoulder and Cru vineyard names like Castelcerino, Casette Foscarin and Salvarenza leading the charge for quality, is making a legitimate call for being recognized as a top producer of white wines. When one talks of Cru Soave it's important to note you are referring to the hills of Soave and not the alluvial flatlands. These hillside vineyards range in elevation from 125 to 1,100 feet.     Evan noted that Garganega based wines like Soave are very nuanced, and  "if you're looking for a wine of place, Soave can be a fire hydrant directly out of the terroir into your mouth".  The class started with a historical perspective of the Soave region and an explanation of the various types of soil that can be found throughout the region.  How the different soil types impacted the style of wines produced became very clear as we tasted the wines. In general one could say the calcareous limestone based soils yielded more linear, citric, floral and austere wines. I think these wines would age more quickly. Conversely wines from grapes grown in the volcanic red and black basalt soils were richer, thicker, oilier with more texture.    We started with 2014 Latium Soave DOC "Campo le Calle". From alluvial based soil, 100% Garganega, 30 year old vines, 15 to 25% of the grapes are dried for 15 to 20 days. Pale gold color, aroma of hawthorn, fresh cut grass and citrus. On palate citrus and lemon with zippy acidity.  14% abv $20 2013 Vicentini Agostino Soave Superiore DOCG "Il Casale" is 100% Garganega from calcareous alluvial based soils from the hills of Colognola. Raised in stainless steel vats only, grassy lemon-lime aromas and flavors with a delicate acidity and finish.  13% abv $25 Seafood Salad - rock shrimp, cuttle fish, italian butter beans, celery, cherry tomato, walu walu onion, lemon vinaigrette, chili oil 2013 Cantina di Soave Superiore Rocca Sveva DOCG Classico "Castelcerino"  80% Garganega 20% Trebbiano di Soave - A cooperative of 2,200 growers Cantina di Soave produces roughly one out of every two bottles of Soave sold. Rocca Sveva represents the high end of their portfolio.  The grapes are pergola trained therefore they are handpicked. Stratified calcareous rock soils, grapes from the top 100 best growers, the wine spends nine months in the tank before bottling. Gravity only, no pumps are used to move the wine. Light golden yellow color, with mineral, melon , pear and honey notes, bright and crisp   13% abv $20 2014 Marcato Soave DOC Classico "Monte Tenda" 80% Garganega, 20% Trebbiano di Soave from 11 year old vines, fermented and aged in stainless steel for 6-8 months. Light gold color, aroma of white flowers and yellow apples. On palate lemon citrus flavors with a light finish.  12.5 abv $18 2014 Cantina del Castello Soave Classico DOC "Pressoni" 80% Garganega 20% Trebbiano di Soave, clay-basaltic soil, raised in stainless steel, three months "sur lie", aged four months in the bottle before rel
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