A brief break in a little stand of trees: to our left cars and farm equipment motor by, and at one point a concerned motorist honks at me, leaning over to watch through his window for me to wave if I’m ok as he drives away. To the right, pilgrims pass on the Camino, sometimes in conversation, sometimes making only the sound of their feet on the road. All around, a hundred thousand leaves shake and clatter in the wind.