November 26

We are back in Qamishli, in northeastern Syria on the border with Turkey. A group of children sing by a bonfire: “Bijî Serok Apo”, “Bijî Sero Apo”

It means: “Long live the leader Apo” and it refers to Abdullah Öcalan also known as “Apo”, a Kurdish leader who is one of the founding members of the militant Kurdistan Workers' Party or “PKK”.