Before we get into the article, here's a quick note: Iâm starting classes and courses where I mediate discussions with people across the ideological spectrum. We find common interests and goals to build bridges across divides. Send me a DM or respond to this email if this interests you.
Youâre in a relationship with whatâs in front of you, not with its potential. While this might be sound advice for romantic relationships, itâs a whole other ballgame when it comes to investing in real estate.
When I first stepped foot in Valencia, Spain, I fell in love with what was in front of me: its cosmopolitan energy with a Spanish flair, beaches, parks, excellent bike paths and public transport, terrace culture, cheap food, markets, an international airport, sculpted beach bodies, sounds and smells Iâd never encountered, mountains in the distance, and 300 days of sun a year (with a side of potential skin cancer).
Itâs not hard to see why Valencia is frequently voted as the best city for Expats, Europeâs green capital, and why its record-breaking housing prices are causing a crisis for many local renters.
If I had invested in Valenciaâs real estate potential five years ago, the apartment's value could have appreciated by approximately 50% or more, considering the recent 17% annual increase. Yet, what was in front of me was already out of my budget.
Instead, I turned to Comunidad Valenciaâs fourth-biggest city, CastellĂłn de la Plana. Known as one of the ugliest cities in Spain, CastellĂłn de la Plana has been steadily revamping its reputation since I arrived.
(No, not because of me.) In recent years, CastellĂłn de la Plana has undergone significant urban development and beautification efforts, evidenced by its transformation and the stunning Christmas displays of 2024.
Key initiatives include the completion of the Ronda Oeste, a major infrastructure project supported by the Generalitat Valenciana and the CastellĂłn City Council, with a âŹ46 million investment aimed at improving urban connectivity and traffic flow.
These local efforts are complemented by CastellĂłnâs participation in European initiatives, such as the Intelligent Cities Challenge, which focuses on sustainable urban planning and energy efficiency, and the UNaLab project, funded by the EUâs Horizon 2020 program, which enhances urban sustainability through nature-based solutions.
Natureâitâs one of the main reasons Iâve decided to stay in Castellon de la Plana instead of trying to make ends meet in Valencia.
The Desert de les Palmes Natural Park is a mountainous landscape that flanks the coastline, defined by its rugged summits and popular walking trails.
For cycling enthusiasts, the Via Verde Green Route provides a scenic path through diverse landscapes, making it a favoured choice for both cyclists and hikers. Well, itâs flat, so maybe the better word is âwalkers.â
Additionally, the Sierra de Irta Natural Park offers a combination of mountainous terrain and pristine beaches, ideal for hiking and enjoying unspoiled (outside of the summer months) coastal scenery.
The Penyagolosa Natural Park is home to Mount Penyagolosa, the highest peak in the province, making it a haven for hikers and climbers seeking trails and stunning views.
Off the coast, the Columbretes Islands Nature Reserve is an archipelago renowned for its rich marine biodiversity, popular for diving and boat excursions.
Lastly, the Serra d'EspadĂ Natural Park is known for its lush cork oak forests and diverse wildlife, offering numerous trails for hiking and exploring nature.
Yet, these arenât places you can visit daily unless youâre retired. If you have a busy and sporadic schedule like mine, you might want to live in a neighbourhood with parks, beaches, bars, restaurants, supermarkets, and everything else you need within a 10-minute walk.
Thatâs why I chose El Grao, Castellon de la Planaâs coastal district and port area. Similar to Valenciaâs Cabanyal, it was considered one of the most sketchy neighbourhoods, âfull of Gitanos (gypsies) and Moroccans.â And whereas this sentence might sound racist AF, it reflects how many people talk here. Thatâs no excuse, but people in CastellĂłn have historically viewed El Grao negatively through those labels. As a result, my property value hasnât skyrocketed like those in Cabanyal, Valencia.
In the town of El Grao, Iâm one of the only guirisâwhite-ass foreigners who wear flip-flops in winter. The other foreigners live a fifteen-minute walk away in villas on the beach. Yet, every year, I hear more English, German, and French as I walk through El Grao. Most of these people are retired, but thanks to UJI, Castellonâs university, you can also find younger crowds from across Europe.
While locals remain skeptical of the area, foreigners are increasingly drawn to it. This was also the case with Cabanyal, Valencia. Now, those same locals who looked down on Cabanyal are kicking themselves for not investing.
You might think itâs silly to compare a city with 800,000 people (1.5 million if you include the metropolitan area) to Castellon de la Plana, a city with 175,000 people (300 000 people if you include nearby municipalities like Vila-real, BenicĂ ssim, and Almassora). However, from my North American distance perspective, these separate towns feel like distinct neighbourhoods.
BenicĂ ssim, for instance, hosts the Festival Internacional de BenicĂ ssim (FIB), one of Spainâs most famous music festivals, and Rototom Sun Splash, the best Reggae festival Iâve ever attended. These events attract people worldwide and give the surrounding areas an international feel during those weeks.
While weâre at it, hereâs a list of the other largest festivals (only a tiny percentage) Castellon has to offer.
1. La Magdalena (CastellĂłn de la Plana)
* When: March
* Type: Traditional Religious and Cultural Festival where people get absolutely wasted.
* Description: The city celebrates its patron saint with parades, fireworks, traditional costumes, and the "mascletĂ ."
2. Fiesta de San Juan (BenicĂ ssim)
* When: June 23-24
* Type: Traditional Festival
* Description: Celebrates the summer solstice with bonfires, fireworks, and beach parties along the coast.
3. Encuentro de Veleros de El Grao (El Grao, CastellĂłn)
* When: September (varies)
* Type: Maritime Festival
* Description: A celebration of tall ships and sailing vessels with races, exhibitions, and nautical activities at CastellĂłn's port.
4. DĂa de las Paellas
* When: January
* Type: Culinary and Cultural Festival
* Description: A highlight of BenicĂ ssim's patronal festivities, this event celebrates community and gastronomy with thousands gathering to cook and enjoy traditional paella.
5. Feria de la CerĂĄmica (Vila-real)
* When: May
* Type: Craft and Artisanal Festival
* Description: Celebrates Vila-real's ceramic tradition with exhibitions, artisan markets, and pottery workshops.
Many of these festivals are much more local than Fallas in Valencia, but thatâs also why you donât walk around like a squished sardine with English screams piercing your ears.
Look, festivals and natureâthatâs what I enjoy. However, Iâm fully aware that others might choose big cities for the shopping experience, but thatâs not lacking in CastellĂłn de la Plana either.
CastellĂłn de la Plana offers a diverse shopping experience featuring a mix of local boutiques and well-known brand stores. On the pijo (posh) side of things, one of the primary shopping destinations is El Corte InglĂŠs, a prominent Spanish department store offering a wide range of products, including fashion, electronics, and home goods. Thereâs even a Rituals store in CastellĂłn, which, unfortunately for my wallet, Iâm addicted to for the smell of my body and home.
Yet, the only shopping I do weekly is at the local markets. Castellon offers one of Spainâs largest markets every Monday, with 480 stands of local produce, clothes, perfume, toys, fabrics, and much more. Many of these vendors come to El Graoâs market every Friday, which is where I buy all my vegetables, fruit, and clothes which would cost double in stores.
Now, if all of thatâs still not enough for you, Valencia is just over an hour away by train. For those of us with a North American distance perspective, Castellon de la Plana feels like itâs part of Valenciaâs metropolitan area. The difference: better beaches, prices, a more authentic local experience, and a whole lot of potential.
Also, if you become a founding member, Iâd be happy to create a personalized tour, show you the area, help you with accommodation, and whatever else you need.
Born Without Borders is a reader-supported guide to building bridges across divides, cultural psychology, travel writing and how to salir de las fronteras que impone tu mente. Both free and paid subscriptions are available. If you want to support my work and help me upgrade to more than one cabin bag, the best way is to take out a paid subscription or Buy Me a Coffee.
If you are interested in English lessons for global citizens (or know anyone who is), please send me a message or visit English for Global Citizens.
Here are some of my travel videos related to the festivals and culture in Castellon:
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit bornwithoutborders.substack.com/subscribe