In this episode, we talk to Andrew Palmer, one of the strongest weekend warriors in the Northeast, known for the 4th ascent of Jaws II (5.15a). We dive into his obsession with China Beach, and he shares lots of wonderful stories along the way. We also talk about how climbing intertwined with his life and kids, what he went on to do after China Beach, and how he finally found a fitting book-end to his climbing career.  

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About the podcast 

We’ve had a decade-plus obsession with China Beach 5.14b - possibly the best route in the world. This podcast series is about that route - what makes it unique and special. Hosted by Rajiv Ayyangar and Michael Penn. @chinabeachpodcast on Instagram 

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Timestamps 

INTRO

2:14 - Does it suck to be Alex Megos? 

3:44 - Climbing with Dave Graham and others at the Nor’Easter 

OBSESSION 

9:52 - Andrew expected CB to be a book-end, but it wasn’t. 

16:33 - Other routes built confidence. 

21:07 - CB was all he cared about 

23:16 - Growing up climbing in Richmond 

25:52 - The impact of seeing Waimea 

29:22 - Dartmouth, but mostly climbing 

31:49 - Training, sort of 

39:17 - Justen Sjong’s coaching, the World Cup 

42:16 - Jakob Schubert’s entourage 

44:33 - 5.14’s at the New 

46:24 - Unbelievably fit while working Livin’ Astro 

TURNING THE PAGE 

48:46 - Notable Waimea climbs post-CB and having kids 

51:14 - Why was CB so all-consuming vs. harder routes? 

53:53 - The Fly vs. Jaws II 

1:00:26 - Jaws didn’t feel 5.15a?! CLOSING THOUGHTS 

1:06:14 - The OG gang (Dave, Joe, Luke) 

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Routes mentioned 

RUMNEY 

China Beach (5.14b) 

Livin Astro (5.14c) 

Jaws II (5.15a) - Andrew Palmer’s video: https://vimeo.com/77539725 

China Glide 2014 (5.14d) 

The Fly (5.14d) 

NEW RIVER GORGE 

Proper Soul (5.14a) 

Still Life (5.14b) 

Mango Tango (5.14a) 

Trebuchet (5.14b) 

PAWTUCKAWAY 

Child of the Storm (V13)