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Ep 6: Nina Williams—“Iron Rose” beta, lifetime goals, and the magic of climbing outside often
Nina Williams is a professional climber and mindset coach known for her iconic highball ascents of Ambrosia and Too Big to Flail, as well as multiple V13s. We talked about her recent trip to Rumney with Rajiv, getting super into sport climbing, her “Iron Rose” beta break (with video walkthrough), why she doesn’t climb faster, and how she approaches climbing just for herself despite career pressures.
ABOUT THE PODCAST
We’ve had a decade-plus obsession with China Beach - a 5.14b in Rumney and possibly the best route in the world. This podcast series is about that route - what makes it unique and special. Video episodes on YouTube and Spotify. Hosted by Rajiv Ayyangar and Michael Penn.
SUBSCRIBE
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/66l7lJsbyteIAND8oL3t1C
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg-qNvftQ61mrvHdHrBueeg
Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/climbing-china-beach-a-podcast-series-about-one-route/id1654201582
FOLLOW FOR CLIPS AND UPDATES
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chinabeachpodcast/
CLIMBERS MENTIONED
Dan Beall (Rajiv’s coach), Brian Kim, Alex Waterhouse, Charlotte Durif, Lizzie Asher, Mike Patz, Josh Levin, Kara Norton, Adriana Jacobson, Dana Seaton (Nina’s former coach), Amity Warme, Dan Nguyen (FA to the break), John Mallery, Jon Brock, Daryl St. Laurent, Dave Graham
ROUTES MENTIONED
Techno(surfing) 12b • Zulu 14a • Simply Read 13d • Sarchasm 14a • Butt Bongo Fiesta 13a • Thunder Muscle 13d • I Am The Walrus 14a • Call Me Daddy 14a
LINKS
Will Gadd: “Training for Climbing Isn’t as Hard as You Think”: https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-effectively-train-for-climbing/
NINA WILLIAMS
Follow Nina on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sheneenagins
Nina's sponsors: The North Face • Scarpa • Organic • Black Diamond • Gnarly Nutrition
Music: ‘Mt. Washington’ by YBalloon
TOPICS
0:00 - Intro
8:19 - Growing up around CB in New England
12:10 - Switch to sport climbing / last yr’s Rumney trip
14:43 - "Iron Rose" beta break: video walkthrough
24:41 - Why doesn't Nina climb faster?
31:28 - The magic of climbing outside as much as possible
36:49 - How to climb just for yourself (esp. as a pro)
48:07 - Beta as a library of sensations
53:45 - Climbing Sarchasm (5.14 at 13,000 ft)
56:56 - Her first 5.13 at Waimea (and a twist!)
59:59 - Upcoming climbing and China Beach this Spring
1:03:32 - CB and the podcast as a micro-community
1:05:30 - Parting thoughts
View all episodes
By Rajiv AyyangarNina Williams is a professional climber and mindset coach known for her iconic highball ascents of Ambrosia and Too Big to Flail, as well as multiple V13s. We talked about her recent trip to Rumney with Rajiv, getting super into sport climbing, her “Iron Rose” beta break (with video walkthrough), why she doesn’t climb faster, and how she approaches climbing just for herself despite career pressures.
ABOUT THE PODCAST
We’ve had a decade-plus obsession with China Beach - a 5.14b in Rumney and possibly the best route in the world. This podcast series is about that route - what makes it unique and special. Video episodes on YouTube and Spotify. Hosted by Rajiv Ayyangar and Michael Penn.
SUBSCRIBE
Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/66l7lJsbyteIAND8oL3t1C
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCg-qNvftQ61mrvHdHrBueeg
Apple Podcasts: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/climbing-china-beach-a-podcast-series-about-one-route/id1654201582
FOLLOW FOR CLIPS AND UPDATES
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chinabeachpodcast/
CLIMBERS MENTIONED
Dan Beall (Rajiv’s coach), Brian Kim, Alex Waterhouse, Charlotte Durif, Lizzie Asher, Mike Patz, Josh Levin, Kara Norton, Adriana Jacobson, Dana Seaton (Nina’s former coach), Amity Warme, Dan Nguyen (FA to the break), John Mallery, Jon Brock, Daryl St. Laurent, Dave Graham
ROUTES MENTIONED
Techno(surfing) 12b • Zulu 14a • Simply Read 13d • Sarchasm 14a • Butt Bongo Fiesta 13a • Thunder Muscle 13d • I Am The Walrus 14a • Call Me Daddy 14a
LINKS
Will Gadd: “Training for Climbing Isn’t as Hard as You Think”: https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-effectively-train-for-climbing/
NINA WILLIAMS
Follow Nina on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sheneenagins
Nina's sponsors: The North Face • Scarpa • Organic • Black Diamond • Gnarly Nutrition
Music: ‘Mt. Washington’ by YBalloon
TOPICS
0:00 - Intro
8:19 - Growing up around CB in New England
12:10 - Switch to sport climbing / last yr’s Rumney trip
14:43 - "Iron Rose" beta break: video walkthrough
24:41 - Why doesn't Nina climb faster?
31:28 - The magic of climbing outside as much as possible
36:49 - How to climb just for yourself (esp. as a pro)
48:07 - Beta as a library of sensations
53:45 - Climbing Sarchasm (5.14 at 13,000 ft)
56:56 - Her first 5.13 at Waimea (and a twist!)
59:59 - Upcoming climbing and China Beach this Spring
1:03:32 - CB and the podcast as a micro-community
1:05:30 - Parting thoughts