We've wanted to have Joe on the podcast since we first had the idea, and he did not disappoint - alternate beta, training advice, surprising histories of routes, and hot takes on grades.

We really got a feel for the vibe and community at Rumney when Joe was a young climber, and we all reflected together on what makes New England special.

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ABOUT THE PODCAST

0:00 Start

1:51 Intro

3:18 Niche climbing culture

4:53 Introductions

13:02 Missing fall in New England

15:31 Vivid first impressions of China Beach

19:16 Ward, Dan Nguyen, grading history

22:36 Joe's energy for route development

25:21 Team tough mentoring the next generation

29:00 Cold War was a different route

37:36 The Waimea scene back then

41:33 New England Climbing Culture is special

47:47 Conditions and mindset

50:32 Projecting China Beach

57:49 Projecting - specific sections

1:00:31 Projecting - dealing with fear

1:03:49 Andrew Palmer - how much has the beta changed?

1:04:24 Joe's alternate sequence at the T in Uncommon Ground

1:06:56 Q: Kara Norton: Joe's favorite hold?

1:11:36 Nina Williams' send and video

1:13:48 Where did Joe fall a lot when redpointing?

1:15:16 How good is China Beach?

1:18:37 Joe Coaches Rajiv

1:28:37 Joe coaches Michael for Bad Girls Club

1:30:07 30-30 - Joe's favorite interval endurance training

1:38:45 China Beach vs. Livin Astro

1:42:14 Joe's style as a developer vs. China/Astro

1:45:17 Q: Ryan Leventhal: Livin' Astroglide or Southern Smoke?

1:46:09 Flatanger vs. Waimea

1:47:54 Shagg Crag

1:48:54 Farley

1:50:19 Northeast climbing spots

1:52:52 New beta on Bad Girls Club

1:55:45 Grades and new beta

2:01:11 Rumney grades

2:02:19 No Shit

2:04:14 Parallel Universe

2:08:36 Emotional relationship with China Beach

2:11:38 Our relationship with climbs and climbing

2:18:22 Dave Graham