In this session I relive session 114 at Bolsa Chica while surfing with an injured shoulder. Thanks for listening!

Ep.59: #114 One Armed Bandit

Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.

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Ep.59: #114 One Armed Bandit

Ep.59: #114 One Armed Bandit