About this Podcast

Climbing China Beach is a podcast series all about one route: China Beach, a stunning 5.14b in Rumney, NH. @chinabeachpodcast on Instagram

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Episode 1: The Perfect Rock Climb

In this first episode we dive into what makes China Beach the perfect rock climb, and how both Michael and I became obsessed with it. We do a breakdown of the route, including the weird and wonderful lower section, and the heroic moves above the break, and attempt to unpack at a philosophical level just what makes a rock climb…good. Michael talks about watching Alex Megos send it, and we also highlight the best videos of the route, so you too can get psyched. Videos and other references are linked in the show description.

Show Notes

Watch: Films of China Beach

Brian Kim

Lower Section (1:31)

The Move (2:36) 

Undercling crux (3:00)

Foot Switch (3:17) and failed switch (0:54)  

Iron Cross move to the sloper with a notch (3:32) 

Dave Graham in Dosage II (China Beach starts at 2 minutes), or better, rent Dosage II ($4) 

Uncommon Ground (2002) (sadly unavailable) 

Michael Penn (Foot up earlier at 1:47, contrast Brian Kim 3:17) 

Alex Megos 

Nick Orange 

Read:

Description of China Beach on Mountain Project, by Jay Knower 

Rajiv’s blog post about making progress on China Beach: Why I Climb

Routes mentioned:

China Beach 5.14c

Livin’ Astro 5.14c

Michael and Rajiv’s links

Michael’s channel: Michael Penn Math

Rajiv: @rajivayyangar on Twitter

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Timestamps

1:47 - What makes China Beach the perfect rock climb?

3:25 - The beauty of the rock and Waimea

4:54 - How Michael became obsessed with China Beach

6:44 - Rajiv’s first encounter with Waimea

8:20 - A breakdown of the route

10:25 - The weird and wonderful lower section, and “The Move”

16:26 - What makes the top section so…fun?

19:26 - The undercling crux

22:03 - Alex Megos’s mind-bending send

26:41 - Unique New England challenges

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(music: ‘Jobii’ by Dylan Sitts, licensed via Epidemic Sound)