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Episode 3: Matty Zane - I don't think I've ever had that much fun trying a route
In this episode, we talk to Matty Zane, a friend and longtime northeast climber. We talk about how he didn't think of himself as an athlete for a long time, and how working on china beach changed how he thought of himself. We talk about how he started taking training, projecting, and tactics seriously, and we get into some of the specific tactics he found.
We also talk about the power of having a good crew, and how that really changed things for him on China Beach. Working on routes and talking about routes with friends is one of the things we love most about climbing. The people we climb with motivate us, help us get better, help us grow. And New England is a special community—Rumney has a long history of strong crews pushing standards, from Team Tough in the 90s, to Dave Graham, Luke Parady, and Joe Kinder in the 2000s.
Plus…there’s new beta! A hold we didn’t even know existed!
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About the podcast
We’ve had a decade-plus obsession with China Beach 5.14b - possibly the best route in the world. This podcast series is about that route - what makes it unique and special. Hosted by Rajiv Ayyangar and Michael Penn. @chinabeachpodcast on Instagram
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Timestamps
2:39 - Climbers vs. sports fans and climbers as athletes
4:56 - First heard about China Beach from Brian Kim, as a young climber in Maine
10:49 - Checking all the boxes as a sport climb
13:38 - To top out or not to top out?
17:18 - Matty learned a ton about tactics and training
21:56 - Adopting a more serious mindset
23:48 - The power of a good crew, and how one conversation changed his belief in himself
30:00 - Tactics to manage conditions
34:33 - China Glide and discovering new beta for the top
38:16 - Why most sends are by locals, and the special New England community
42:17 - Looking back, it was such a fun chapter of his life
45:22 - The wobbler and the shoe
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Links
- Brian Kim on China Beach https://youtu.be/6BWMxpHsrr0
- Mike Foley on Livin’ Astroglide 5.14c/d https://vimeo.com/12375253
- Nick Orange on China Beach https://youtu.be/BoKwOYvBVas
- Jonathan Siegrist’s blog: America’s Best 5.14 https://www.jonathansiegrist.com/2013/12/americas-best-514.html
View all episodes
By Rajiv AyyangarIn this episode, we talk to Matty Zane, a friend and longtime northeast climber. We talk about how he didn't think of himself as an athlete for a long time, and how working on china beach changed how he thought of himself. We talk about how he started taking training, projecting, and tactics seriously, and we get into some of the specific tactics he found.
We also talk about the power of having a good crew, and how that really changed things for him on China Beach. Working on routes and talking about routes with friends is one of the things we love most about climbing. The people we climb with motivate us, help us get better, help us grow. And New England is a special community—Rumney has a long history of strong crews pushing standards, from Team Tough in the 90s, to Dave Graham, Luke Parady, and Joe Kinder in the 2000s.
Plus…there’s new beta! A hold we didn’t even know existed!
---
About the podcast
We’ve had a decade-plus obsession with China Beach 5.14b - possibly the best route in the world. This podcast series is about that route - what makes it unique and special. Hosted by Rajiv Ayyangar and Michael Penn. @chinabeachpodcast on Instagram
---
Timestamps
2:39 - Climbers vs. sports fans and climbers as athletes
4:56 - First heard about China Beach from Brian Kim, as a young climber in Maine
10:49 - Checking all the boxes as a sport climb
13:38 - To top out or not to top out?
17:18 - Matty learned a ton about tactics and training
21:56 - Adopting a more serious mindset
23:48 - The power of a good crew, and how one conversation changed his belief in himself
30:00 - Tactics to manage conditions
34:33 - China Glide and discovering new beta for the top
38:16 - Why most sends are by locals, and the special New England community
42:17 - Looking back, it was such a fun chapter of his life
45:22 - The wobbler and the shoe
---
Links
- Brian Kim on China Beach https://youtu.be/6BWMxpHsrr0
- Mike Foley on Livin’ Astroglide 5.14c/d https://vimeo.com/12375253
- Nick Orange on China Beach https://youtu.be/BoKwOYvBVas
- Jonathan Siegrist’s blog: America’s Best 5.14 https://www.jonathansiegrist.com/2013/12/americas-best-514.html