Around India in Half an Hour

Episode 6: Goa — Where India Learned to Exhale


Listen Later

There is a word in Konkani — borrowed from Portuguese, worn smooth by four centuries of use — that captures something no other Indian language has quite managed to name. Susegad. Quiet. Contented. Unhurried. It is the philosophy of a place that spent 451 years negotiating between the world that arrived and the world that was already here.

Goa is India's smallest state by area. It was also the last to be liberated — not in 1947 when the rest of India became free, but in December 1961, when Operation Vijay ended Portuguese rule in 36 hours of air, sea, and land strikes. Before that came 450 years of colonial history: the grandeur of Old Goa as the "Rome of the East," the Goan Inquisition that demolished temples and forced conversions, and a Catholic community whose Konkani is laced with Portuguese words to this day.

Ray takes you through the full sweep — from the ancient Kadamba dynasty and the Usgalimal rock engravings to Albuquerque's conquest, Saint Francis Xavier's body in the Basilica of Bom Jesus, and the freedom fighters who waited decades for liberation. We meet Lata Mangeshkar, whose family roots in the Mangeshi village gave India its Nightingale. We meet Charles Correa, whose architecture recovered the Indian spatial tradition. We meet Leander Paes — eighteen Grand Slam titles from a state of 1.6 million people.

We eat vindaloo made the proper way — not the mild restaurant version, but the fierce, vinegar-sharp pork preparation that bears the name of the Portuguese vinho e alhos. We eat sorpotel, xacuti, cafreal, and bebinca. We drink feni. We walk through Fontainhas. We stand before Dudhsagar Falls. We find the 12th-century Tambdi Surla temple hidden in the forest.

And we learn what susegad actually means.

New episodes every Tuesday at 7pm. Next week — Gujarat.

...more
View all episodesView all episodes
Download on the App Store

Around India in Half an HourBy Ray Z