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The three legends discuss major changes to wave riding they lived through during their long and still going surfing lives. The rise of localism as lineups got more crowded and aggressive. The first concave nose. The key evolutions that led to the rise of the short board and modern tube-riding. And of course why the spirit of Aloha is the soul of surfing.
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The three legends discuss major changes to wave riding they lived through during their long and still going surfing lives. The rise of localism as lineups got more crowded and aggressive. The first concave nose. The key evolutions that led to the rise of the short board and modern tube-riding. And of course why the spirit of Aloha is the soul of surfing.