This the Unravel Minisode series “Fashion in Focus” where we tell you the brief history of a garment, accessory, or textile. In this FIF, Jasmine reveals the history of the ruff.

Image: Junya Watanbe, Fall/Winter 2000 Ready-to-wear collection. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe/slideshow/collection#27

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96. Fashion in Focus: The Ruff

A podcast with a focus on fashion history.
Featuring cohosts Jasmine, Joy, and Dana

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Museum at FIT and Accessories Galore with Elizabeth Way by Unravel A Fashion Podcast

Museum at FIT and Accessories Galore with Elizabeth Way

In this episode, we will be talking about Edamburu hairstyle worn by Mangbetu women in the early 20th century. Also called the tumburu style, it was popularized and fetishized by fashion designers and movies. We want to thank scholar Vicky Pass for allowing us to use her research for this episode.

Thumbnail: Naomi Simms in a fashion editorial, possibly Life Magazine.
Photos of the hairstyle being created (@t4yana): https://www.instagram.com/p/BcGNEtPl7Wa/

Vicky Pass' posts about the hairstyle:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDXhuDuJ3VB/
https://www.instagram.com/p/CDUbLxdpjEP/

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Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/ 
Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery

Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

137. Fashion In Focus: Edamburu Hair Style

This episode is a little different. Firstly, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Consider this an oral history of friends. Joy talks with friend of the show and scholar Johnathan Michael Square about being black in academia. They share triumphs, challenges, feelings, and advice to those wanting to pursue careers in academia. 

Talking PointsHow do you choose a college?, Deb Willis, NYU, FIT, UMBC, Where are the Black conservators?

Image Credit: gentlemansgazette.com via Brooks Brothers

Find Jonathan Michael Square: www.facebook.com/fashioningtheself/  

Find us:
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Twitter: @unravelpodcast
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Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/
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Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/
Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery
Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

136. Being Black In The Archives

In this Fashion In Focus Jasmine reveal the history of the Panama Hat (which is actually the Toquilla Hat) that does not originate from Panama. The woven's hat originated and is still manufactured in Ecuador. 

Image credit: www.domingocarranza.com

Resources: 
https://www.domingocarranza.com/dcpanamahatsblog/

https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/panama-hat/

https://ultrafino.com/blogs/articles/the-complete-panama-hat-history

https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Panama_Hat_Trail/QNgtDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Panama+Hat&printsec=frontcover

135. Fashion in Focus: The Panama Hat

For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. We start in the “ancient period” and end somewhere around the Janet Jackson and Justin Timberlake debacle.

This is just the teaser join our Patreon to listen to the full episode patreon.com/unravelpodcast. This episode contains adult themes and content listener discretion is advised.

Theme: Chakachas - Jungle Fever

Image credit: Anna Dorothea Therbusch: Portrait of Wilhelmine Encke, Countess Lichtenau


Find us:
Website: www.unravelpodcast.com
Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcast
PayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcast
Instagram: @unravelpodcast
Twitter: @unravelpodcast
Facebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/
Pinterest: Unravel: A Fashion Podcast www.pinterest.com/afashionpodcast/
Stitcher: www.stitcher.com/podcast/unravel-podcast
Waller Gallery Website www.wallergallery.com/
Waller Gallery Instagram: @wallergallery
Jasmine's Nicaragua Instagram: @recuerdosdenicaragua

96. Fashion in Focus: The Ruff

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