“We have no stoplights here. The cows are our traffic control,” my guide says as we wait in the car for a mother and her calves to cross the road. They’re in no hurry. Neither am I. It has taken some doing to get to Paro, Bhutan, and I’m glad to have made it. To begin with there was the visa business. While the country is open to tourism it is not open to everyone. The government has made a decision to cultivate affluent travelers by limiting visas to those who meet a minimum spend requirement. “We don’t want backpackers,” I was told by several sources during my visit. Travelers are expected to be accompanied by licensed guides.

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