HOMESTEADucation

Peat moss is used for terrestrial plants both indoors and outdoors. It is spongy and holds enough water without being sopping wet, and is derived from digested Sphagnum moss, making it organic.

 Most people say that peat is not a renewable resource and therefore should not be used. And it turns out…most people would be correct. 

 Really I think the confusion is peat moss vs. sphagnum moss

 Peat moss usually has that texture that you imagine when you think of moss. It’s thin and bright green, sort of like turf. If you touched it or walked on it, you can expect it to be wet and squishy.  It contains more water than sphagnum.

 Sphagnum moss could be wet and squishy too, but it doesn’t resemble turf. Instead, it grows noticeable fibers.

 Peat Moss and Sphagnum Moss are basically the same plant. Read that again. They are part of the same plant.

 While both peat moss and sphagnum moss come from the same plant, the moss grows in different circumstances, the surface of the soil versus in the water, but it is still the same moss.

 Peat moss and sphagnum moss are two sides of the same coin, so to speak. Depending on where the moss was growing determines how we refer to it once it’s packaged for sale to the public. I would guess most folks don’t know the difference. 

Peat Moss will be banned, or the sale of peat, in EU in 2024. 

 Remember, peat forms very slowly in cool wetlands as sphagnum moss decays. The bogs are called "carbon sinks" due to the massive amounts of carbon they store—far more than trees. When peat moss is harvested, carbon dioxide is released, and carbon dioxide is a significant contributor to climate change. While some scientists view peat bogs as a possible aid in reversing climate change, the very increases in heat and drought brought about by climate change may destroy the bogs.

The industry says it harvests less than 2% of the existing supply each year and that this reasonably low collection amount keeps up with demand. But even though that doesn't sound like a lot, harvested areas can't recover quickly enough for peat to be considered a renewable resource. * this is everyones hang up

Additionally bogs are also known as carbon houses. I read that some data suggests that once a bog is harvested a little or a lot, it can take up to 40 years for carbon to stop being emitted. 

 SO this is why folks are saying that peat moss is contributing, or the harvesting of peat moss is contributing to global warming. 

Carbon compounds regulate the Earth’s temperature. Carbon also provides us energy.

How is peat harvested?

Peat moss is harvested from bogs and fens around the world, but primarily in Canada and Russia. These water-logged bogs have taken carbon from the atmosphere and sequestered it for 10,000 to 12,000 years, according to Linda Brewer, soil scientist in the Department of Horticulture in OSU's College of Agricultural Sciences

INCREDIBLE article on Peat Moss and where some of the above information was sourced. 

https://phys.org/news/2022-12-harvesting-peat-moss-contributes-climate.html

https://www.noaa.gov/education/resource-collections/climate/carbon-cycle 

Chime in! Thoughts?
Find us on Socials
Angela @axeandroothomestead
Mandi @wildoakfarms 

Cheers!

Emergencies on your Homestead // Does this lifestyle make you tough? 

Where you started vs now?

How have you changed? Have you changed? Advice for those starting out.

Join us as we sit down and have more of an overall conversation about the above. 
It is important to reflect as the years go by, make changes, remember what didn't work and what does. 

Here are a few stats that we talk about.

1in 5 Americans live in rural America- a non metropolitan area. 

Mostly, Americans live roughly 10 miles from the nearest grocery store and major hospital. However that does vary from state to state with some being far more drastic (100 miles) and some much closer (2 miles) 

 Grocery store distance median is 7 miles 

What do you think about the perception that farmers/homesteaders don’t care for their animals? What is your take on this given you don’t consume meat. 

It was a good one. Thank you for listening! 

As always find us on socials for more! 

Angela   @axeandroothomestead
Mandi    @wildoakfarms

Season 5: Episode 3 / Natives, Growing Zones, Microclimates

What is a native species?

According to US Forest Service:

“Native plants are the indigenous terrestrial and aquatic species that have evolved and occur naturally in a particular region, ecosystem, and habitat. Species native to North America are generally recognized as those occurring on the continent prior to European settlement.”

What is an invasive species?

From US Forest Service:

“An "invasive species" is defined as a species that is

1. Non-native (or alien) to the ecosystem under consideration; and,
2. Whose introduction causes or is likely to cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health. (Executive Order 13112).”

Why are invasive species considered bad?
According ot US Forest Service: “Invasive species have contributed to the decline of 42% of U.S. endangered and threatened species, and for 18% of U.S. endangered or threatened species, invasives are the main cause of their decline.”

Source: https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/invasives/index.shtml

Invasive species can out-compete native and exotics alike for sunlight, space, soil nutrients, and water. Because they are so successful to their aggressive root systems and ability to produce mass amounts of seed very quickly, they can take over agricultural spaces, forest and prairie lands, and reduce food/habitats that local wildlife depends on. These invasives can change the balance of the natural ecosystem.

*Bradford pear tree example

Are exotic or non-native plant choices bad? 
This is the topic of much debate. It is the opinion of many permaculture practitioners to first look to natives so solve a particular challenge or provide food. If that option does not exist, exotics may be used so long as they are not considered invasive. What is a growing zone? 

The US is divided into regions with regards to their last date of frost. The shorter your winter, the higher your going zone is. If you experience long winters with late last dates of frost, you’ll have a low growing zone number. US growing zones typically range from 3 in cold climates to 11 in hot climates. These regions and growing zone numbers help to determine which plants are best suited to your location.

USDA just updated growing zones across the country for 2024. Find your zone on the USDA Plant Zone Hardiness Map here: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/

What is a microclimate?

A microclimate is a small portion of a garden, forest, or other growing space that has different temperature, humidity, air circulation, sunlight exposure, soil content, and/or moisture levels than other areas immediately surrounding it. This could be due to thermal mass from structures, changes in terrain, proximity to other larger plantings, etc.

Macroclimate: refers to the larger climate patterns of a region. For me I try to think about a large growing plot, like acres or miles of corn. This *can still be a microclimate in spots, spots that flood, spots that are shaded. 

More examples are below. 

Examples: 

Growing differences on hillsides or hilltops vs. valleys on the same property

Growing differences under a maple tree vs. outside the maple tree

Growing differences created in within a few feet of an exterior wall of your home vs. 20 feet away

Think about this- maybe we should consider our microclimate more so than our actual growing zone. We know that this goes against everything we once read when we started our first garden. But hear me out. You can alter your specific

Season 5, Episode 2 / To Deworm or Not to Deworm

Permaculture Perspective

Employ Rotational Grazing methods to manage worm populations

1. Animals should have enough forage for 5-7 days, roughly
2. Animals enter when grass forages reach 8-10” and legume forages reach 10-12”
3. Never allow animals to graze the forage below 4”. This slows forage regrowth and encourages parasite ingestion otherwise
4. A full rotation supplies 21-28 days before animals re-enter the original paddock
5. Pasture rest and sunlight exposure are essential for regrowth, and dropping larvae egg counts

Employ Co-Species Grazing methods

1. Goats and sheep share parasites. Those species do not share with horses, cows, and birds
2. Different species eat different forages and forage portions, ensuring all forage is evenly grazed
3. Birds are essential–they break apart manure piles looking for worms, insects, larvae, etc.

Effects of Dewormer on Ecosystem

1. Dewormers are harmful to dung beetle populations which are an important part of ecosystem
2. Excessive/unnecessary deworming builds resistance within animals
3. Deworming products can effect non-targeted worms once contact is made with the soil just as earthworms

ALWAYS RUN FECAL COUNTS AT ANNUAL CHECK UPS! Learn Famacha scale for goats and sheep, interact with animals to detect any abnormalities, and walk your pastures to monitor forage heights and type!

Medically, if you take a listen the "different" viewpoints line up. Husbandry and medicine go hand in hand when it comes to parasite control and prevention.

Refugia is a confusing term that you may hear surrounding the topic of deworming and goats. Refugia essentially means (in this particular topic) the parasites that are in refuge from the drugs used to treat them. Similar to treating heavy shedders in a horse herd.
Resistance in this case is the genetic ability of parasites to survive treatment with an antiparasitic drug that was generally effective against those parasites in the past.

References:

Prevent Parasites Through Grazing Management

(Penn State Extension)

https://extension.psu.edu/prevent-parasites-through-grazing-management

Dewormer Resistance

(Cornell)

https://cals.cornell.edu/nys-4-h-animal-science-programs/livestock/goats/goat-educational-resources/dewormer-resistance

Social// Instagram:
Angela: @axeandroothomestead
Mandi: @wildoakfarms

*This is not professional veterinary advice, please always work with your trusted veterinarian.

After a long Summer break, Angela and Mandi are BACK! 

Join us as we catch everyone up to speed, chat about "seasons" in homesteading. Maybe it is because we are seasoned? Real life conversation just like we are sitting down with you on your homestead. 

Cheers to you all! 

Find us on social channels!
Angela: @axeandroothomestead
Mandi: @wildoakfarms

Peas: Can be sown when soil temps are between 40 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Shelling peas: for storage

Snap peas: fresh eating

Sweet peas: flowers, not edible

Sow ¼-½” deep in well draining soil. Keep moist through germination and while growing.

Trellis is required. 

Peas have thigmotropism: the ability to feel with sense of touch

Radish: Can be sown when soil temps reach 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Pay attention to radish size, depth, and soil needs when planting.

Grow very quickly!

Carrots: Very difficult to germinate

Seed tape vs. sowing seeds – heavily sow and thin if needed

Keep moist until sprouting (the board trick)

Growing temps of around 40 degrees are great for sweeter tasting carrots

Carrots require fluffy soil with good tilth. Rocks in soil make squiggly carrots.

Bok Choi/Pak Choi/Bok Choi:

Prefers temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees fahrenheit

Prone to flea beetles; use coffee grounds in soil at planting time

Keep moist and cool, provide shade cloth if needed

Beets and Turnips:

Sow typically a few weeks before last frost. Requires temperatures in 40s to germinate and sprout. Keep moist. Sow heavily and thin as needed. Greens and roots are edible. Pay attention to variety for root size–some will never reach larger than a golf ball!

Spinach:

Sow 6 weeks before last frost. Prefers cold temps! Excellent for direct sowing when soil is workable, though does well started in seed cells too.

Crop is ready in as little as 6 weeks from harvest.

Spring Onions:

Plant in cool weather, but only when nighttime temps no longer fall in the 20Fs. Plant no more than one inch deep in seed cells or when direct sowing to avoid root growth restriction. Sow heavily and thin as needed.

Strawberries:

Plant bare root crowns and mulch surrounding soil with straw as soon as the soil can be worked. Be sure to identify desired variety; everbearing or June-bearing.

Calendula:

Cold season herb. Flowers are medicinal. Can be grown in spring and fall.

Remember! Some of this might be applicable to you now or in a few weeks. Either way we hope we have encouraged you to get out in your gardens and start growing something beautiful. 
Cheers. 

Angela- @axeandroothomestead
Mandi- @wildoakfarms

This is likely one of many chats between the both of us about our Livestock Guardian dogs. 
One of many. 

Stay tuned for more to come! Cheers. 

Angela @axeandroothomestead
Mandi @wildoakfarms 

The brassica family includes cole crops, descendants of the mustard family and wild cabbages. This includes broccoli, cauliflower, romanesco, kale, brussels sprouts, cabbage, and collards.

(cabbage is actually a member of the mustard family- but we lump it into brassicas!)

Soil and Temperature

These crops prefer well drained soil, kept moist. The seeds require slight warmth to germinate at 65 degrees Fahrenheit or more, but prefer to grow in cool conditions. If grown in peak summer, and not provided with cooling shade, they’ll bolt. Bolting means going to seed, or sending up flower heads before a true crop is produced for harvest.

Tip: Know your growing environment! If your temperatures where you are seeding stay in the 60-70 range you may not need any bottom heat for germination. If you do use heat mats (and we do!) just remember to remove the trays when you have germination. Forgetting to do so can contribute to weak and leggy seedlings. 

When to Sow and Transplant

Sow 6-8 weeks before last date of frost in seed trays. Direct sow when temperatures are warmer. Can be transplanted out three to two weeks before last frost date when left unprotected. If row cover or a hoop house is provided, can transplant into the garden much earlier.

Tip: Grow where you have NOT grown like crops in the past couple of years- this goes for the whole brassica family. 

It is safe to generalize the statement that brassicas want a soil pH of about 6-7.

Tip: I have found over the years that crops like broccoli and cabbage enjoy a little “extra love” when the plants are in your garden and roughly 4-5 inches tall. We side dress with some well aged compost. 

Growing and Harvesting

Harvest broccoli and cauliflower when heads reach roughly 5” across, variety dependent. To blanch cauliflower heads, tie the leaves residing directly below the head together above the crown. This will blanch the cauliflower for a whiter color. According to some folks, as brussels sprouts grow, leaves can be pruned off to allow more sunlight to reach the small cabbage heads along the stalk. This is said to increase sprout size. Cabbage should be harvested before the head splits, usually at around 6” in size (again variety dependent).

Kale

• Note the kale experiment 
• Perennial

Troubleshooting: Any damage (usually pest related or rough handling when removing pests) to the central growing point can lead to a stunted or no head growth. The outer leaves will still grow so it may seem “okay” but they too will be tough and non-edible. 

Perennial choices exist for brassicas:

Angela purchases her’s here: 

https://plantingjustice.org/product-category/perennial-tree-kales-collards/

• 9 Star Broccoli (bushing growth habit and is white like cauliflower)
• Tree Collards
• Walking Stick Kale
• Daubenton's Kale
• Kosmik Perennial Kale

Pests: Slugs, snails, cabbage moths

To deter cabbage moths, use row cover before moths appear throughout the growing season-

1. Companion planting broccoli with garlic, chives and nasturtium helps to deter cabbage moths. Plant thickly.
2. Mulching the garden is great but leave a small bit of soil exposed around the stem of brassicas to avoid slug and snail access

Tip: Spend 10 minutes a day with a morning tea or coffee and pick off any cabbage worms (small green worm like terrible creatures) and dispose. We also like to keep a butterfly net in garden storage to catch any you miss! 

We had the extreme honor of speaking with the incredible Dr. Temple Grandin today. She is not only a pioneer in the Agriculture industry as a whole, but an advocate for animal welfare and husbandry, and she has written over 60 scientific papers. 

On today's podcast we discuss one of her latest published papers:
Grazing Cattle, Sheep, and Goats are Important Parts of a Sustainable Agriculture Future. 
https://www.mdpi.com/2076-2615/12/16/2092

You all. She is brilliant. Even if you don't farm or homestead, her information is applicable to all. After all, we all live on the same planet Earth. 

Enjoy! 

Ps! Another incredible piece to this story is Temple wrote the forward to Angela's book - The Sustainable Homestead- which comes out March 28th, 2023! 
https://a.co/d/0kCFOCV - Preorder her book here! 

Starting onions from seed:

Onion seeds are tiny little black seeds. Go figure, they are like more than 50% of

other seeds.

They prefer to be planted in loose/fertile soil and or seed starting mix.

You *can start them right in the ground if you have a longer growing season, but

most gardeners that aren’t planting starts are starting seeds early in the year. Late-

Jan- Feb.

If you plant directly in your beds plant them an inch deep and keep rows at least 1

foot apart.

Onion plants have very shallow roots and throughout the season will require a

consistent watering plan or irrigation for best results.

A lot of folks plant start onion seeds indoors or in a greenhouse using a bunching

method. Where many seeds are planted in almost a broadcast method in a larger

pot. The seeds will grow and almost look like grass with tiny black specs on top.

When it comes time to transplant outdoors you lift the entire bunch and carefully

separate the individual seedlings. It seems tedious, but as long as your soil is fertile

and loose its not too bad.

Planting onion sets:

Be sure when you are sourcing them that you source from LOCAL places and or

know your grow zone and what onion varieties grow best. IE: short day and long

Day.

Long day vs Short day onions:

This is just referring refers to the approximate hours of daylight a variety of onion

will need in order to start developing the bulb. Short Day means about ten hours a

day, while long day means twelve hours or more. This is important to consider when

choosing for your zone.

pH desired: 5.5-6.5- more acidic if you can.

In general, onions are ready for harvest in 100 to 125 days from seed. If you planted

onion sets, expect to harvest in 60 to 80 days.

How many onions do you eat in a year?

Curing?

Storage?

Onions prefer 6-8 hours of sun per day.

Plan for a spot with access to plenty of moisture as onions are slow drinkers. They do well in damp soil but need drainage… soaking wet feet leads to rotting bulbs.

Know your zone and onion type. Long day onion varieties are generally best suited for zones 6 and lower and require 14-16 hours of daylight. Short day onions need about 10 hours per day and work for zones 7+. Day neutral onion varieties are pretty adaptable with about 12 hours of sunlight needed daily. Ideally suited for zones 5 and 6.

If you’re planning on storing onions over the winter, grow storage varieties suited for long term keeping. My favorites are Aisla Craig for short term storage and Stuttgarter, Yellow Sweet Spanish, Patterson, and Yellow of Parma for long term. I’m not really a red onion person so can’t speak to that as much. 😉

Seeds are slow germinating and can be started in January with transplanting in spring into the garden.

Leeks, chives, Egyptian walking onions, ramps, and welsh onions are all great varieties to add to your must try growing list! Most of these are perennials too.

Keep onions well weeded as they don’t like competitors.

Plan to grow onions alongside brassicas like broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and kohlrabi. They help to repel cabbage worms/moths with their strong scent when closely grown together. Greens, tomatoes and carrots are also good companions. So are fruit trees! Onions are great in guilds.

Never plant onions near peas or beans, peanuts or groundnut, nor asparagus. They stunt one another’s growth.

Harvest onions when they tell you to; their greens will usually fall over and begin to yellow. You can also see their papery sk