It’s been called the world’s stinkiest fruit. But it’s deeply beloved by many. Durian is a pungent, prickly fruit from Southeast Asia that has fascinated foreigners for centuries, and China is no exception. China buys most of the world’s durian exports, a surge spurred over the past decade by social media and growing trade ties with durian-producing countries. Both locals and Chinese are seeking to expand the booming durian industry across Southeast Asia. But the prospect of high profits has also ignited tensions, resulting in land disputes and environmental concerns.

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