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This week we drink the only spirit that comes with its own facial expression: Jeppson's Malört, Chicago's wormwood liqueur of legend. We taste it honestly — pine, grapefruit pith, and a finish the company itself describes as "fresh band-aids and earwax" — and we respect it deeply for being the single most honest product in the liquor cabinet. Then we profile the man who weaponizes it: the Chicago native with a deeply externalized masochistic streak who buys the shot purely to trick out-of-town guests, just so he can photograph their souls briefly leaving their bodies. A loving roast — and an argument that the Malört initiation is, somehow, an act of civic love. Tasting notes and character flaws, as always.
By Tim FultonThis week we drink the only spirit that comes with its own facial expression: Jeppson's Malört, Chicago's wormwood liqueur of legend. We taste it honestly — pine, grapefruit pith, and a finish the company itself describes as "fresh band-aids and earwax" — and we respect it deeply for being the single most honest product in the liquor cabinet. Then we profile the man who weaponizes it: the Chicago native with a deeply externalized masochistic streak who buys the shot purely to trick out-of-town guests, just so he can photograph their souls briefly leaving their bodies. A loving roast — and an argument that the Malört initiation is, somehow, an act of civic love. Tasting notes and character flaws, as always.