Jeremy Umansky is the owner behind Larder Delicatessen & Bakery in Cleveland, which was nominated by the James Beard Foundation as the Best New Restaurant in America in 2019. Jeremy himself was nominated Best Chef Great Lakes in 2020.

But he’s also known for his work with koji, an East Asia mold used to ferment veggies and meats. In 2020, he co-authored the book Koji Alchemy: Rediscovering the Magic of Mold-Based Fermentation, itself nominated as a finalist for the 2022 James Beard Media Awards.

Jeremy and I chat about his interpretation of kashrut and why he believes it needs a 21st Century update before turning our attention to koji, how he uses it as his deli, and what Jewish food means to him.

Larder's Latke Sundae

Makes approximately 10 3” diameter latkes

Ingredients

• 2 large Carola potatoes

• 1 pint schmaltz or vegetable oil Salt to taste

Instructions

1. Preheat your oven to 350°F.

2. Place potatoes on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes.

3. Remove the potatoes from the oven and allow them to cool just enough to handle, about 15 minutes.

4. While the potatoes are still warm, but cool to the touch, grate them on a box grater or by using a food processor.

5. Season the shredded potatoes with salt to taste.

6. Heat the schmaltz over medium heat to 350°F. Use a thermometer to ensure accuracy.

7. Form the shredded potatoes in muffin tins to make bowls for sundaes.

8. Remove from tin and fry the latkes in the schmaltz until they are golden brown on both sides. If the latkes are not completely submerged in the schmaltz you will have to flip them.

9. Serve with your sundae of choice in the latke bowl.