Let's Get Jiggy with some Printer Tips!

1. Adjusting the bed (multiple times using a spacing card.)
2. FIXING the bed (possibly needs to be done on Patrick's printer)
3. Hairspray
4. Alcohol cleaning

The Micro Swiss MK10 All-Metal Hotend Conversion Kit

• The factory hot-end is actually PLASTIC lined -- This means you get much less stable temps
• With a metal hot end, you get more consistent melt
• You can extrude faster (you're not losing as much of the heat)
• You don't get filament "retraction" which can really mess up layers
  • Uses a "Thermal Barrier" -- By using two different metals (stainless steel and aluminum) you can keep heat in the lower portion, and conduct heat away in the upper portion.

Andy Say
- 3D Printer Thoughts
"I am sure there have many discussions about 3D printers here. But I am tossing between two printers and looking to get some input from the group.

The first printer is the LulzBot Mini 3D Printer. My local Microcenter has them in stock at $1,199. The second printer is the Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D printer for $699 (of course kicking myself as I missed when it was on sale about a month ago for $549, and none of their codes work for 3D printers!).

Anyway, for the price difference, is there really a much of a difference?"

The LulzBot Mini

• Heated Borosilicate Glass Bed
• 152 x 152 x 158
• 275mm/sec (at 0.18 height)
• ABS, PLA, HIPS, PVA, Wood, Polyester, PETT, bronze & copper, Polycarb, Nylon, PETG, conductive PLA/ABS, UV, PCTPE
• 1 Yr Warranty

Monoprice Maker Ultimate

• Heated Bed (Metal with build tape)
• 200 x 200 x 175
• 150mm/sec
• Same layout of filaments
• 1 Yr Warranty

Hosts: Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ and Patrick Delahanty

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