February 18, 2016

Know How... 187: DIY SteamPunk Goggles Finished

45 minutes

Final episode for our do it yourself Steampunk Goggles, learn the code, how to build, and download the files needed for a 3D printer.

3D Printing the Housing

All the STL files are contained in the following ZIP archive

Goggle Integration Instructions:

Solder 30awg black/red (ground/voltage) wires to the outside pins of the potentiometer

Solder a single 30awg blue or white wire to the inside pin of the pot

Solder the black wire to an arduino GND through-hole

Solder the red wire to the arduino 5v through-hole

Solder the blue/white wire to the arduino Analog 7 through-hole

Insulate your Arduino assembly with a strip of 1-1/4" clear heat-shrink.

Insert the LED retention rings into each cup, making sure to keep the wires in the cutout

Install the potentiometer into the 6mm hole in the right cup, lighing up the support peg with the indent

Shave down the center hole of two brass gears so that they will fit around the pot shaft.

Place the brass gear over the pot shaft and fasten it with a washer and the mounting nut.

Insert the right cup into the right-frame, making sure to line up the bridge strap with the cutout in the frame piece, while holding back the wires so that they'll be hidden by the frame.

Using a piece of double-sided foam tape, secure the arduino to the inside of the right frame.

Remove the mounting nut, clips and clip spring from the magnifying loupe.

Insert the loupe pole through a brass gear, then insert it into the 2mm mounting hole in the left frame.

Secure the loupe with the mounting nut, tightening it until the loupe lenses are held in tension.

Run the battery harness through the hole at the bottom of the battery plate in the left frame piece.

Insert the left cup into the left frame, once again making sure that the wires are covered by the frame.

Programming

We need to add the code that allows us to use the potentiometer to control which animation is being displayed.

Things to Remember

We're using the "100 lines" code as the basis of our sketch

We soldered the wiper (the pin that sends variable voltage depending on the position of the pot) to Analog 7

The data line going to our LED rings is soldered to Digital 3 4. We have 32 LEDs (16 + 16)

Things that we changed in the Code

DATA_PIN is set to "3"

NUM_LEDS is set to "32"

Brightness is set to "100"

We added "Serial.begin(9600);" to the setup so we can get feedback from the Arduino

In "loop()", we changed the last line "EVERY_N_SECONDS( 10 ) { nextPattern();" to: -- "EVERY_N_Seconds ( .5 ) { pattern();"

By bumping the "EVERY_N_SECONDS" down to .5, it means that the Arduino will call the "pattern()" function ever half-second, instead of checking every 10 seconds

We're created the function "pattern()" to check the status of the Analog pot and turn it into a value that will set "gCurrentPatternNumber" to a value between 0-5

We added a function and an array entry for blanking the ring.

void pattern()

{

int aRead = analogRead(7); // This checks the pot connected to Analog Pin 7 and gives us a value between 0-1024

int PatChoice = map(aRead, 0, 1020, 0, 6); // This maps the value of the pot from 0-1020 to a value between 0-5

Serial.print(aRead); // debug -- Sends the value of the pot to the serial port

Serial.print(""\t""); // debug -- Sends a tab

Serial.println(PatChoice); //

gC

These show notes have been truncated due to length. For the full show notes, visit https://twit.tv/shows/know-how/episodes/187

Hosts: Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ and Bryan Burnett

Sponsors:

Ring.com/KNOWHOW

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