MASHING GRAINS FOR BEER, FROM MY PERSPECTIVE

http://traffic.libsyn.com/bminusshow/mashing_from_my_perspective.mp3

Mashing grains (the mash) is a huge step in making beer. It is where you extract all the sugar from the grains that are soaked in hot water then rinsed (sparging) with hotter water. It usually takes around an hour to mash and around 1.5-2 hours to complete this step in full.

GRINDING GRAINS

I usually put my drill operated grain mill to an acceptable gap (can’t think of the exact number right now) and use a gauge to see if the sides are even. My mill was pricey but kinda janky, but I work with it for a bit and check my crush. If it is crushed decently, I finish the milling.

It usually takes me around 20 minutes to grind around 15 pounds of grain. That is usually good enough for about 7 gallons of beer. Keep in mind some grains need more or less of a gap, and some grains are harder than others.

THE ACTUAL MASH (generic instructions)

So you gotta get your pre-mashing water up to about 170 degrees F then add your crushed grains while stirring them to avoid and get out any clumps. The clumps will not absorb water and you will essentially be wasting grains and not meeting your gravity.

The water temperature will lower from the grain addition, so you should be floating around 155 degrees or so after adding the grains. Check your recipe on what temps are the best to add your grain and mash at. *If you do brew in a bag like I have been recently, do the same above but put your grains in your bag / sack.

Let those grains soak for 60-90 minutes. There are a ton of theories and methods at this stage. Sometimes I mess around with them. For example, decoction is boiling some separate water and a portion of your grains raise the temperature.

I don’t do decoction (as of this post). It is used to do step temperature mashes, and is an older mashing style that is still used by some breweries. I simply make sure my mash tun is hella insulated (wrapped in thermal shields and a heavy moving blanket).

Once temp is set and clumps are worked out and stirred, I check the PH and make my adjustments (add my baking soda or lactic). I will then stir and check again in a couple of minutes and keep adjusting. I use a PH meter. Some peeps use PH strips. Whatever floats your boat?

Strips are cheaper though. Stay within a 5.2-5.4 PH range; the pros say to do so and it works.

One thing I learned is to watch for the residual change. For example, you may over or under adjust if you don’t stir well enough after these additions or if you check to quickly as the chemical process is happening.

You will likely lose some temperature or heat in this process so make sure you come in a little hot when adding grains.

Some people don’t stir their grains after adjustments to “not disturb the grain be.” I can tell you that I disturb the grain bed when I want to. Some argue it “gives the beer off flavors” and such.

While this may be true, 1) don’t care and 2) am not sure if that is true. The reason I am kinda like this on it is because many professional breweries have stirring rods that turn the grain at certain points.

I had trouble in the past hitting my gravity after mash and stirring the grains helps me to hit it. Plus it helps me to evenly distribute the temperature and PH additions.

Make sure you check the temperature about 30-45 minutes into the mash. Do it quickly to avoid losing temperature if you have to lift the lid. I have a thermometer attached to the mash tun but I like to check it manually and seperately also.

All in all, typically after I am happy with my mash PH, I will set it for about an hour. I will then stir it and check the temp (and raise it if needed) and let her sit for another half ...