The Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California is Mexico’s premier wine country, a lush valley that makes Napa seem as gorgeous as a parking lot.

But a lot of development is coming to the Valle — and many locals aren’t happy.

Today, we travel to this beautiful, contested space with two experts. Javier Cabral is the editor of LA Taco and wrote about a recent anti-development protest there. Javier Plascencia, a pioneering chef, has seen Valle grow and wants the world to come in — in a sustainable way.

More reading:

Is Valle de Guadalupe over? The fight to protect Mexican wine country

10 things to know about Chef Javier Plascencia

Baja is making a lot more great wine than you might think