Because this authentic BBQ joint is the place to go in the barbecue capital of Texas. The smoke stings your eyes as you walk into the hallway, the walls black with a century of burnt oak. There’s a gap in the line as you queue up at the meat counter, to avoid the slow-burning fire at the end of the 12-foot brick smokehouse. Contained within: mounds of brisket, sausage, turkey and pork ribs. A sign advises “No Forks,” but they will give you a plastic knife. No plates, either.