Chris Cosentino, chef at San Francisco’s Incanto restaurant, is an offal evangelist. He’s the one people turn to when they have questions about parts of the animal beyond tri-tip and sirloin. Here, he talks about the lost connection between pasture and plate, the ways that both PETA and the USDA have gone off course, and the joys of possum-eatin’. Plus: He escorts us through a full offal dinner.