In which: daughter and dad wonder why they go to restaurants; ponder on the importance of service; dwell on the delights of the Yummy Yummy Noodle Bar, Dorego’s and the magic of the Fat Duck; Lois remembers lunch at the Locanda Cipriani; Matthew remembers lunch at the station at Villarosa in Sicily; examine why we go to different restaurants on different occasions for different reasons; celebrate the theatre of restaurants; hail pubs, pop ups and the golden age of current British chefs; bewail the burden of the restaurant critic.

Lois’s tip: think small. Matthew’s tip: booze buster

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