The goat cheese called for in this recipe is not the one most people are accustomed to: the creamy, snowy-white fresh cheese that comes in the shape of a log or pyramid. Here you want aged goat cheese. Seldom as hard as Parmigiano, it should crumble between your fingers. In taste it is more assertive and pungent than the fresh. Look for aged goat cheese in specialty food shops.

This soup comforts. Even though it is hearty, it sets the stage beautifully as a first course to be followed by grilled or roasted meat or poultry, and a green salad. Or make a meal of it with good bread.