Theresa Badurek, Urban Horticulture Extension Agent

Agapanthus(Photo-UF/IFAS)

In the fall the weather will begin to cool and the rains will slow down.  (Hard to imagine these days, isn't it?) These conditions present several

challenges for the home gardener, but there are some things you can do to

prepare your garden (and yourself) for the cooler, drier weather.

If you use annuals

in your landscape it may be time to replace some of the summer annuals.  In early fall (Sept.-Oct.) try plants like ageratum, coleus, celosia,

zinnia, and wax begonia to give your landscape color into cooler weather.  Then once temperatures start to cool (Oct.-Nov.) you can

plat petunia, pansy, snapdragon, dianthus, and alyssum.  When shopping for annuals choose compact

plants with healthy leaves, good color, and lots of flower buds (they don’t

have to be in bloom at the time of purchase). 

For more information about gardening with annuals in Florida: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG31900.pdf. 

Since annuals are seasonal they should make up focal areas in

the garden, but not too much space, as they require a lot of energy and resources

for such a short life-span.   Lots of bulbs like to get their start in these cooler months.  Plant agapanthus, amaryllis, and lilies now

for blooms next spring and summer.  Divide

and replant perennials and bulbs that have grown too large- be

sure to do this by November so they can become established before the weather

turns colder.  Add organic matter to new

planting areas and monitor water needs during establishment.  For more information about dividing and

propagating plants: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg108.

Cilantro (Photo-Iowa State University Extension)

Plant herbs that tolerate the warm temperatures of early fall, such as

Mexican tarragon, mint, rosemary, and basil.  Later in the fall when the weather is cooler try

parsley, cilantro, garlic, and thyme.  Since

some herbs are annuals and some are perennials remember to group them

accordingly so you won’t be disturbing the perennials when replanting the

annuals.  Many herbs are also suited to

planting in containers- but you must remember that those plants in containers

will dry out faster than those in the ground and will need more irrigation

attention.  For more information about

growing herbs in your Florida garden: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02000.pdf. 

Cabbage (Photo-Purdue)

In this

cooler weather (Oct.-Nov.) you can plant cool-season vegetable

crops, such as celery, cabbage, lettuce, collards, and many others.  For more information about vegetable

gardening in Florida, including suggested crops and their planting dates: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02100.pdf. 

In September or October, fertilize your citrus with a balanced fertilizer. 

Many early season citrus varieties will be ready for harvest starting in

October and November, such as ‘Navel’ and ‘Hamlin’ oranges, ‘Marsh’ grapefruit,

‘Orlando’ tangelos, ‘Meyer’ lemons, and more. 

If necessary, fertilize your

St. Augustinegrass and bahiagrass lawns with a fertilizer containing at least

50% slow-release nitrogen and no phosphorous in early October.  Do not use a “weed and feed” product.  No lawn and landscape fertilizer containing

nitrogen can be used in Pinellas County before October 1st.  (For more info on the Pinellas County

Fertilizer ordinance: http://www.pinellascounty.org/PDF/Fertilizer-Ordinance-Brochure.pdf.)  As the weather gets cooler the turf will not

need as many nutrients so this is best applied in early October. 

Enjoy planning for this cooler season soon to come!

During the summer when the heat is stifling, it’s important to take advantage of shade when you are outdoors.  If your yard has no shade trees you may not have much respite from the heat. Shade on your home and air conditioner may also decrease your energy costs in the summer.  With all of these benefits you may be considering planting shade trees on your property.  Planting a tree is a (hopefully) long-term commitment so you want to choose the right tree from the start. 

If you choose an evergreen tree you will have shade year-round while deciduous trees will shade your house in summer but allow the sun to warm your house in winter when they lose their leaves.  You can plant shade trees at any time of year; just be sure to follow UF recommendations for proper planting practices.   To learn more about these practices visit Planting and Establishing Trees at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP31400.pdf.

Pinellas County is unique in several ways- most of us have smaller lots to work with, some have salt breezes from the water to contend with, and we all have wind storms.  You may be wondering what shade trees can we plant here that will thrive in our unique environment?  A favorite shade tree in our county is the Live Oak, Quercus virginiana (large tree, zones 8-11).  Live oak is a great choice but grows very large- up to 40 to 60 feet in height with a 60 to 100 foot spread.  It is drought and salt tolerant as well as wind resistant, which is why it’s a popular choice if you have the room. 

Sparkleberry, Vaccineum arboreum

Sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua

If you have a moist but well-drained site and space you

could consider Sweetgum, Liquidambar styraciflua (large tree,

zones 5b-10a) or Sparkleberry, Vaccinium arboreum (small tree, zones

7-10).  These two choices are deciduous,

so they will lose their leaves in winter when you would probably prefer more

sun anyway.  Their leaves also turn

beautiful colors before they fall bringing seasonal color to your

landscape.  Sparkleberry has high wind

resistance and sweetgum is considered to have medium-high wind resistance.  Sparkleberry also flowers profusely if grown

in full sun.

Silver variety of Buttonwood, Conocarpus erectus

For smaller property with drier

conditions you might consider the following small trees, all of which are salt

and drought tolerant and have high wind resistance: Buttonwood, Conocarpus

erectus (small tree, zones 10a-11), Simpson’s

Stopper, Myrcianthes fragrans (small

tree, zones 9-11), and Yaupon Holly,

Ilex vomitoria (small tree, zones

7-10).  These three choices are all

evergreen and will provide year-round shade. 

All three of these choices can be grown as a large shrub or a small

tree.  Each of these have unique

characteristics that take them beyond a simple shade tree: Buttonwood has a silver

variety that has silvery leaves that shimmer in the sun and the wind, Simpson’s

Stopper has reddish, flaking showy bark and Yaupon Holly produces beautiful red

fruit in the fall and winter on the female plants (males must be present for

fruit production). 

Yaupon Holly, Ilex Vomitoria

Yaupon Holly fruit

The right shade tree for you may not be on this short list,

but remember to consider size, evergreen vs. deciduous, color, seasonal

interest, and match growing conditions to your site conditions for the greatest

chance of success.  For more guidance

with this and other plant choices in

your landscape please visit the interactive plant selector Florida-friendly

Plant Database at http://floridayards.org/fyplants/.  For information on

the health and maintenance of shade

trees please visit: http://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/maintenance.shtml.

*Northern Pinellas County is in zone

9b, central and southern Pinellas County is zone 10a.

It’s May and the weather is still pleasant… for now.  Soon we will be battling hot summer sun, bugs, humidity, and torrential rains every afternoon.  These conditions present several challenges for the home gardener, but there are things you can do now to prepare your garden (and yourself) for the heat.

       Smart garden planning will give you more time to play here!  Photo courtesy Pinellas County. 

If you use annuals in your landscape you probably know by now that many of them don’t tolerate the Florida heat very well.  Just because a plant is being sold in local garden centers does not necessarily mean it’s the right time to plant them here in Florida.  However, there are several annual plants that take our temps in stride.  They include salvia, torenia, wax begonia, coleus, and ornamental peppers. When shopping for annuals choose compact plants with healthy leaves, good color, and lots of flower buds (they don’t have to be in bloom at the time of purchase).  Click here for more information about gardening with annuals in Florida.

Coleus, photo courtesy UF/IFAS Okeechobee County

 

Since annuals are seasonal they should make up focal areas in the garden, but not too much space, as they require a lot of energy and resources for such a short life-span.   Right now is also a great time to plan new perennial plantings, including trees, palms, shrubs, and groundcovers.  If you have a plan at the ready you can be prepared to install once the rainy season starts- then you won’t need to water as often yourself.  Just remember that if you plant something before you go on vacation you should ask a friend or neighbor to care for it while you are gone.   

Click here for more information on establishing new trees and shrubs. 

But that’s not all you can do this time of the year.  You can also plant some herbs that like the heat such as basil, Mexican tarragon, and rosemary.  Since some herbs are annuals and some are perennials remember to group them accordingly so you won’t be disturbing the perennials when replanting the annuals.  Many herbs are also suited to planting in containers- but you must remember that those plants in containers will dry out faster than those in the ground and will need more irrigation attention.  Click here for more information about growing herbs in your Florida garden. 

Southern peas, aka black-eye peas, courtesy UF/IFAS Extension

If you think your new herbs might get lonely out there, don’t hesitate to try your hand at vegetable gardening.  But (and this is a biggie) you can’t plant the same veggies in the summer that you can up north.  Our hot temps just won’t work with many of the usual veggies, but there are several crops you can grow here in the heat including okra, southern pea, and sweet potato.  Click here for more information about vegetable gardening in Florida, including suggested crops and their planting dates. 

Summer (June, July and August are great) is also a good time to solarize your vegetable garden, so you can add this to your summer gardening plan.  What does that mean?  Well, this one prep can help reduce soil pests and even kill weed seeds, making your garden more successful throughout the fall gardening season.  Solarizing involves harnessing the heat of the sun by covering the soil with clear plastic and is most effective in the summer months.  To solarize, you want to prepare your soil with any amendments such as compost or manures before you begin.  Make sure your garden is clear of rocks, twigs, weeds, and other debris.  Till the soil to at least 6 inches to make sure the heat will penetrate deeply enough to be effective.   The day after a good rain or irrigation is best for applying the clear plastic sheeting over the soil.  Lay sheets of clear plastic over the soil and bury the edges to keep it in place.  Clear plastic is the only kind that will be effective- do not use black.  Finally, leave plastic in place for at least 6 weeks.  Click here for more info on solarizing your garden,visit “Introduction to Soil Solarization”. 

Photo from UF/IFAS "Trees and Hurricanes" website

A discussion of summer garden preps wouldn’t be complete without a mention of hurricane season.  Now is your last chance to prepare for hurricane season by checking trees for damaged or weak branches and prune if needed.  Be sure to hire an ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) certified arborist to do this work- they are trained to care for trees and continually participate in ongoing education to maintain this certification.  This can help lengthen the life of your trees and minimize the chance of property damage.  To find a certified arborist near you, visit the ISA website tool to locate a tree professional by clicking here. 

 

Last, but definitely not least, make sure to watch out for your own health in the heat.  Slow down, dress for summer, do not get too much sun, drink water, do not drink alcoholic beverages, and spend more time in air-conditioned places.  The University of Florida Extension has a great webpage for heat safety that everyone should read before it gets too hot, visit it by clicking here.  Be safe and have a great summer!

Resource Agent

Resources:

Diseases

Many Florida residents find unknown plants

growing in their yard, unknown bugs in their houses or gardens, and apparent

diseases on what were previously healthy plants. So what resources are out

there to help you turn the unknown into known?

Your local Extension office should be your first point of contact for helping you

identify any mysterious problems or species in your home or yard. You can call,

e-mail, or visit the office in person.

We offer walk-in Lawn and Garden Help Desk

services at the following locations:

·        

12520 Ulmerton Rd., Largo, FL 33774

Walk-In Hours: Mon-Fri 8am-5pm (excluding holidays)

·        

Palm Harbor Library

2330 Nebraska Ave., Palm Harbor, FL 34683

Wednesdays from 10am-2pm, January through mid-November

assistance is also available by phone at (727)582-2100 and then Press 1.

When you do, have or send the following:

·        

Photographs (digital or

snapshot) or a physical sample if you are making an in-person visit.

·        

As detailed a

description of the organism or disease symptom as possible (e.g., where and

when you saw it, behavior, any others present, how long it has been occurring,

the type of damage).

Even if your county

Extension office cannot make the identification

or disease diagnosis, the agents will be able to help you with forms and

samples to send to UF/IFAS's diagnostic laboratories.

There are thousands of insects in Florida, and

knowing whether the one you found is harmless, beneficial, or damaging is key

for deciding on control measures. The Insect ID Lab can analyze insect samples

sent by Florida residents. The Help Desk can provide answers or information on

preparing a sample to send to the Insect ID Lab. The lab will charge $8 per

sample sent.

Send samples in a crush-proof container with the

accompanying submission form (205KB pdf).

Sending samples in flat or padded envelopes is discouraged.

1)   

The more specimens

included in a sample, the better.

2)    In most cases, you should kill and preserve the insects before

sending them.

a.   

Do this by placing them

in the freezer or in a vial with rubbing alcohol.

                                         

i.    Caterpillars will not preserve well in an alcohol solution. Moths and

butterflies should be kept dry.

b.   

Take special care if you

believe the insect could be a new or exotic species.

Contact your Extension office or read the submission

guide for more details.

You can either bring in a physical specimen of

the plant (or blossom, leaf, etc.) or a photograph to the Help Desk. Multiple

photographs are best, with pictures of leaves, bark or stem, blossoms, seed

pods, as well as the whole plant itself.

In addition to the pictures or sample, pass

along as much additional information as possible:

·        

Size and shape of plant,

leaves, blossoms, seeds.

·        

Growth habit and

location.

·        

Conditions in location

(e.g., sun, soil type and moisture, cultivated or forested area).

·        

Colors of plant and

blossoms.

If the Extension agent or Master Gardener cannot

make an identification, they will send a sample to the UF Herbarium. All identification samples sent to the herbarium must first go

through your county Extension agent, but the herbarium does offer an online database where Florida

residents can look at images of plants in the collection.

UF/IFAS Extension offers multiple plant

diagnostic clinics and labs, which make up the Florida Plant Diagnostic

Network. These diagnostic clinics use living-plant samples to make disease

diagnoses.

An important note: once a plant is dead, our Extension professionals are unable

to make a disease diagnosis. Harmful fungi and bacteria are present in all

Florida soils, and many secondary bacteria and fungi will start to grow on a

dead plant. These two factors make it impossible to determine what, if any,

disease killed a plant.

Contact your county's Extension

office for help and information on preparing a

plant or turf sample to send to a diagnostic lab. The lab will charge $40 per

sample sent. (Certain disease tests are no charge.)

Send properly packaged samples with the

accompanying submission form (149KB pdf).

Sometimes what you believe may be a disease is

only a nutrient deficiency. Your local Extension agent can advise you if it

would be worth testing your soil before doing a disease analysis. (Find more

information from the Extension Soil Testing Laboratory.)

General guidelines include:

·        

Take samples before

applying pesticides.

·        

Make sure samples are

living (green).

·        

Include a large amount

of plant material that covers the range of the symptoms.

·        

Do not mix different

samples in the same submission bag.

Contact your Extension office and read the submission

guide for more details.

UF/IFAS Extension offices are your source

for answers to your questions and solutions for your life. Wildlife was not

covered in this guide, but any identification questions or problems you have

can be answered by our offices if you give them enough information.

An e-mail, telephone call, or visit to your local

Extension office is your first step in

identifying any plants, pests, animals, problems, or curiosities you encounter.

L. Buss, Insect Identification Service (RFSR010), Entomology and Nematology Department (rev. 3/2010).

N. Williams, Plant Identification and Information Service (RFSR013), Extension

Administration Office (rev. 12/2011).

A. Palmateer, et al, Sample Submission Guide for Plant Diagnostic Clinics of the

Florida Plant Diagnostic Network (RFSR007), Plant Pathology Department (rev. 9/2012).

by Theresa Badurek, Urban Horticulture Extension Agent, UF/IFAS Pinellas County Extension

Dahoon Holly, Ilex cassine

We all know that there are many beautiful holiday plants to enjoy this time of year. This year I would like to focus on a group of plants that not only bring us pleasure, but also provide something for our wildlife- hollies. There are several native hollies that we can grow here that provide food and habitat for our wildlife while also providing decoration both outside and in. Holly fruits are a favorite winter food for many birds and mammals, providing seasonal nutrition for our feathered and furry friends. In addition to providing a food source, holly shrubs and trees also provide habitat for many birds.

While the most important benefit of these plants is enjoying them outdoors in their natural state, they can also be used as cut greens in holiday decorations (the evergreen varieties). Keep in mind that hollies are dioecious plants: the male and female flowers are on separate plants and female plants produce berries. If you are looking for berries for holiday décor you will want to make sure you have some female plants. Also, many of the dwarf varieties do not produce berries.

If you don’t already have hollies in your landscape you may consider planting them now for next year. Hollies prefer part shade but most will tolerate full sun, they prefer acidic soils, and they all require a well-drained soil. Here are a few suggested native hollies:

American Holly, Ilex opaca. This is the holly most traditionally associated with the holiday season. It has spiny leaves and red or yellow fruit. Click here for more info.



Fruit of Ilex opaca



Foliage of Ilex opaca

Dahoon Holly, Ilex cassine. This holly makes a great specimen or street tree. It even has another seasonally appropriate common name- Christmas Berry. Click here for more info.

Fruit and foliage of Ilex cassine

Yaupon Holly, Ilex vomitoria. Depending on the variety you choose this can be a small shrub or a small tree. Click here for more info.

  

Fruit and foliage of Ilex vomitoria



Ilex vomitoria ’Dodds Cranberry’



 

These hollies, and others, would make great additions to the landscape-and great gifts for those on your holiday shopping list too. You will enjoy them and the wildlife will thank you. Happy holly-days everyone!

Florida is home to many native fern species, including the

Boston fern (Nephrolepis exalta) and

giant sword fern (Nephrolepis biserrata),

which can be difficult to distinguish from non-native ferns that grow in the

same environments, such as Tuberous sword fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia) and the Asian sword fern (Nephrolepis multiflora). Each of these

are often still sold in the nursery and landscape trade, and often confused or

misidentified as the native species of fern.

The native Boston fern (Figure 1) has erect fronds that can

reach up to 3 feet long and 6 inches wide. The round sori (clusters of

spore-bearing organs) are in two rows near the underside of the pinnae

(leaflet). It is commonly found in humid forests and swamps of Florida,

although is native to other regions such as South and Central America. It is

grown outdoors as well as indoors for ornamental value; their high humidity

tolerance makes them a good candidate for both indoor and outdoor use.

Figure 1. Native

Boston Fern

The native giant sword fern (Figure 2) has fronds that extend

several feet and can be found in moist to wet soil. The species name comes from

tiny teeth that alternate with larger teeth along the edge of each lance-like

pinna. Underneath each pinna, round sori occur evenly around the entire edge. The

petioles (stalk) are sparse to moderate with reddish to light brown hair-like

scales. Tubers are never present in this

species.

Figure 2. Native

Giant Sword Fern

Since the non-native ferns can be invasive and disruptive to

native plant communities, it is very

beneficial to be able to recognize the differences between them. The Asian

sword fern and Tuberous sword fern are sold under various names, often ones of

native origin.

Tuberous sword fern (Figure 3) sometimes produces tubers, and

it is the only one of the four ferns mentioned that is capable of doing so. The presence of these tubers alone is a

distinct way to identify the species. The presence of scales on the upper

side of the rachis (stem) that is distinctively darker at the point of

attachment is another way to distinguish the tuberous sword fern from the other

three species. Native sword fern has scales on the upper side and are

homogenously colored.

Figure

3. Non-Native Tuberous Sword Fern

Tuberous sword fern can be distinguished from Asian sword

fern (Figure 4) by its glabrous central vein of the pinnae contrasted by the

presence of short stiff hairs that occur on the central vein of the pinnae of

Asian and giant sword fern. The most

distinguishing characteristic for Asian sword fern is a dense covering of dark

brown, pressed scales with pale margins on mature petioles. Petiole scales

of tuberous sword fern are dense, spreading, and pale brown, while those of

native sword fern are sparse to moderate, reddish-brown, of a single color or

slightly darkened at the point of attachment and have expanded bases with small

hairs.

Figure 4. Non-Native

Asian Sword Fern

Resources:

http://www.floridata.com/ref/n/neph_exa.cfm

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/uw217

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/AG/AG12000.pdf

Okra crop

If you come to us from up north, this is the time of year you would normally enjoy vegetable gardening. That’s not usually the case here in Florida. Sure, there’s plenty of sunshine and usually lots of rain… but the heat, oh my, the heat. Most crops people really want to grow just won’t perform in our subtropical summer temps, and it can be downright brutal to weed your garden mid-July. But what if you are determined to garden in the summer anyway? Besides sunscreen and lots of water to hydrate yourself, what do you need to know?

Fresh watermelons

Summer crops for Florida are limited. Things like watermelon, black-eyed peas, okra, and sweet potatoes are best this time of year. If you are more interested in getting ready for the more diverse fall vegetable gardening season, black-eyed peas are a great choice. They are legumes and the help fix nitrogen in their roots. If you grow these as a cover crop and turn the plants into the soil before they produce peas, you will help nourish your soil with more nitrogen for the fall. You can grow and harvest the peas if you like, but this will reduce the amount of nitrogen put back into the soil.



Okra flower

 Sweet potatoes are healthy (superfood anyone?) and they grow on rather beautiful vines. Growing this crop is a great way to keep down weeds in your garden while keeping it beautiful all summer long. I don’t have much to say about okra- can you tell I’m not a fan? But, if you like gumbo this is the crop for you! Finally, watermelon is a fun crop, and a summertime favorite that would be ready late August or early September if you got it planted right now. You’re going to need some space for this one, as watermelon vines can grow up to 12’-16’ long! Plan accordingly.

All of the usual tips and techniques apply when gardening in the summer as well. Things like mulching to keep down weeds and scouting for pests regularly to avoid infestation are always great advice. Keep an eye on plants to make sure they are getting enough water. We usually get plenty of water from rain in the summer, but not always. Be sure to avoid letting your garden wilt in the extreme summer heat. Plants grown in containers will need more frequent watering to avoid this. For this and much more about vegetable gardening- at any time of year- please visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/VH/VH02100.pdf. This handy link will give you the tools to succeed in your Florida garden any time of year, including planting dates, best varieties for Florida, and times to harvest.

Or you could just hit the beach… it’s hot out there!

Part 3: Properly Training Your Trees for Wind Resistance

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse. Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent. This is part two of a three-part series.

 

Trees are like children. When they are young they need lots of training to make sure they grow up strong, straight and healthy. Proper pruning is extremely important for good tree structure and the health of the tree. The most wind-resistant tree form is one that has a single leader or trunk with evenly spaced branches. There should be no narrow forks or branches leaving the trunk and if there are multiple trunks with sharp V angles these are very likely to split apart in a storm. Tree branches should retain 2/3 of their canopy.

The one on the bottom

has been pruned properly.

Palms, on the other hand, should never have their fronds removed above a horizontal line, or less than a 90 degree angle off of the trunk. The so-called “hurricane cut” is the worst cut of all for palms. Palms treated in this manner are robbed of food and vigor, and will be more likely to sustain severe damage or death from a hurricane. See these links for more about pruning: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg087and http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep443. For suggestions on choosing a tree care professional, check this website: http://tinyurl.com/7gbqt6r.

Having trees that are beautiful, strong, healthy and wind-resistant just takes a little know how. Now that you know what to look for, go outside and inspect your trees. Make sure they have good structure and enough space for their root systems. If a tree needs help, contact a certified arborist who can advise you about pruning steps that can be done to create good structure, or for possible removal if the tree is hazardous.

And if a tree does fall or have to be removed, plant a new one. But plant a more storm-resistant one and make sure it gets regular pruning while young. See this link for a tree pruning schedule: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ep276

Dr. Ed Gilman, Professor of Environmental Horticulture, University of Florida, consulting with a resident on wind resistant tree selection.

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse.  Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent.  This is part two of a three-part series.

After you have selected a tree for your yard and are getting ready to plant it, you need to picture it full grown.  Make sure mature trees will have lots of space, both in the air and in the soil, which gives them a better chance of surviving storms.  Plant smaller trees near homes, power lines and other structures.

All trees need a certain amount of root space based on their mature size.  Trees smaller than 30 feet tall need a soil area of at least 10-by-10 feet and should be at least two feet from paved surfaces.  Medium trees with a height and spread less than 50 feet need at least 20 x 20 feet should be six feet from pavement.  Trees with a height and spread greater than 50 feet need at least a 30-by- 30 foot area and should be 10 feet from pavement.  More space is needed if there is a high water table and the roots have less than a depth of 3 feet for rooting.

When planting for shade it is more important to shade the east and west walls of a house than the roof. Small trees planted fairly close to the house for wall shade will be less hazardous than large trees which can fall on the house.  For more information, see these links: Urban Design for a Wind Resistant Urban Forest and Choosing Suitable Trees for Urban and Suburban Sites.

If you are a do-it-yourself landscaper, dig the hole wide and shallow so that the top 10% of the root ball is above ground level.  The outer inch or so of the root ball should be shaved off to remove all circling roots, and mulch should be applied 3 inches thick and in an area 2 feet in diameter for each inch of tree trunk diameter.  Mulch should come up to the edge of the root ball, but not cover it.  Roots will expand best when there are no soil differences, so it is best to stick with the natural soil and not amend the planting hole.  Establishment takes time and providing enough water is critical to tree survival.  For more detail see this link: Planting Trees and Shrubs.

Next week Part 3: Properly Training Your Trees for Wind Resistance

This week's blog was written by guest blogger Jane Morse.  Jane Morse is the Pinellas County Commercial Horticulture Extension Agent.  This is part one of a three-part series.

Part 1: Wind Resistant Trees for Your Landscape

When it comes to trees and storms, there are victims and there are survivors.  The question to ask yourself before the next – inevitable – big Florida storm is: Will your tree survive or will it come crashing down on your roof?

Trees have a lot to contend with during storms. High winds snap them and break off branches.  Rain loosens the soil, making it harder for the roots to hold them up.  And the longer it takes for storms to move through an area, the more water accumulates in the soil and the more battering the trees take.

A tree’s survival comes down to whether it is resistant to wind, if it is properly planted and pruned, has enough space for its root system, and is in good health.  Trees with these properties can help to protect your home during a storm.  Or at least minimize damage.  Here are some things to consider when adding new trees to your landscape:

That some trees are naturally more resistant to wind has been shown by surveying those still standing after hurricanes.  They include southern magnolia, yaupon holly, dahoon holly, podocarpus, crape myrtle, pondcypress and baldcypress.  Palms in this category include pindo, areca, Alexander and sabal.  You can find a more comprehensive list at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/FR/FR17300.pdf.

According to the University of Florida's "Trees and Hurricanes," some of the weaker trees are ash, maple, water oaks, pecan, tulip poplar, Bradford pear, southern red oak, Australian pine, floss-silk tree, weeping banyan, silk oak and jacaranda.

Next week: Part 2, Planting Wind Resistant Trees in Your Landscape