I am blogging to you from Juma’s Campsite on the Northern boundary of the Kativi National Park. As I type, I can hear a hippo snorting in the river 20 meters below camp, a colony of herons and yellow-billed storks squawking in the trees above camp, and a steady stream of 30 ton trucks struggling down the steep road leading down to the river. Alas. The trucks are louder than the hippo and the birds, but not as loud as the mosquitoes looking for any blood the tsetse flies might have overlooked earlier in the day.