South from Poland by train, Brno in the rain, party hostel with room to myself, giant phalic astronomical clock, underground ossuary, pondering mortality amidst piles of bones, Prague with its Gothic architecture and supreme beauty, old Japanese man with wooden sandals, Ceske Budejovice as a writer, hostel above a bar, drinking with Czech men, Cesky Krumlov and its UNESCO castle and pink church, more writing more wandering, ending Czechia in a travelers pub with fire raging and pen flowing...Czechia.