Scored last week, surfed a new spot (Kewalos) and still hitting Diamond Head. Ortho also confirmed I need surgery on my shoulder.

S3E14: #41 Diamond Head

Straight outta South Bay SoCal, I’m an avid surfer in my early forties who still has the “grom stoke.” Despite being an intermediate surfer at best, I’m a stickler for proper etiquette, and in the thickest of crowds, I do my best to find that gap in the lineup to catch a few all to myself. Tune in to hear talks about surf philosophy, struggles in aggro/semi-pro breaks, the successes of scoring unmolested waves, travel, and genuine stoke/psyche.

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S3E14: #41 Diamond Head

S3E14: #41 Diamond Head