Will Anglin and Ben Spannuth, founders of Tension Climbing, are two of climbing’s most dedicated technicians. Not only have they spent years studying the physiological components of “training,” Will and Ben have also devoted themselves to scrutinizing climbing’s more nebulous aspects: movement, personal weaknesses, and so forth. They are famous for their belief that no detail is too small to be examined closely, and their skill on the rock is testament to the value of this approach. In this episode, we talk about the culture and discipline of setting routes, what sort of fine-tooth considerations go into shaping holds out of wood, and their thoughts on which Olympic sport should be brought back from the dead.

TOPICS & TIMES:

• How Will got injured making a hold (1:00)
• Is route setting an art form? (5:15)
• What makes someone a great routesetter? (8:15)
• How do you handle criticism? (11:55)
• What olympic sport would you bring back? (16:58)
• Outtake (23:48)

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