Your cat is scratching. Again. And again. And again.

You've noticed those tiny black specks in their fur. You've seen them biting at their skin until it's raw. Maybe you've even spotted the little monsters jumping around.

Your cat has fleas. And if you've ever dealt with a flea infestation, you know it's not just uncomfortable for your cat—it's a full-blown household crisis.

But here's the good news: Fleas are beatable. Completely, totally beatable. You just need the right strategy, the right products, and the right information.

I'm Summer, and today on the Duke Tyner podcast, we're diving deep into everything you need to know about getting rid of fleas on your cat. The science, the solutions, the step-by-step process, and the mistakes to avoid.

By the end of this episode, you'll have a complete battle plan to eliminate fleas from your cat and your home—for good.

Let's get started.

SEGMENT 1: UNDERSTANDING THE ENEMY - WHAT ARE FLEAS?

Before we talk about killing fleas, we need to understand what we're dealing with. Because fleas aren't just annoying—they're incredibly sophisticated parasites that have been perfecting their survival strategy for millions of years.

What is a flea?

A flea is a tiny, wingless insect about the size of a pinhead. They're reddish-brown, flat from side to side, and they have powerful back legs that allow them to jump up to 150 times their own body length. If humans could do that, we'd be jumping over 50-story buildings.

Here's what makes fleas so dangerous:

First, they reproduce insanely fast. A single female flea can lay up to 50 eggs per day. That's 1,500 eggs in a month. Those eggs fall off your cat into your carpet, bedding, furniture—everywhere. Within days, they hatch into larvae, then pupae, then adult fleas ready to jump back on your cat and start the cycle again.

Second, they're incredibly resilient. Flea pupae can survive in a dormant state for up to six months, waiting for the right conditions to emerge. That's why you can think you've eliminated them, only to have them come roaring back weeks later.

Third, they're not just annoying—they're dangerous. Fleas can transmit diseases like bartonellosis (cat scratch fever), typhus, and tapeworms. Heavy flea infestations can cause anemia, especially in kittens. And the constant scratching can lead to skin infections and hair loss.

The flea life cycle has four stages:

Eggs - Laid on the cat but fall off into the environment. They're tiny white ovals, almost invisible. These make up about 50% of the flea population in your home.

Larvae - Small, worm-like creatures that hide in dark places like carpet fibers, under furniture, in bedding. They feed on organic debris and flea feces. These are about 35% of the population.

Pupae - The cocoon stage. This is where they're most protected and hardest to kill. They can stay dormant for months. About 10% of the population.

Adults - The biting, jumping fleas you see on your cat. These are only about 5% of the total flea population. That means for every flea you see, there are 19 more in various stages throughout your home.

That's why getting rid of fleas requires attacking all four stages simultaneously.

SEGMENT 2: SIGNS YOUR CAT HAS FLEAS

HOST: How do you know if your cat has fleas? Sometimes it's obvious, but other times the signs are subtle, especially if your cat has just a few fleas.

Here are the telltale signs:

Excessive scratching, licking, or biting. If your cat is constantly grooming one area, especially around the neck, base of the tail, or belly, that's a red flag.

Hair loss or thinning fur. Fleas cause irritation, and cats will scratch or over-groom until they create bald patches.

Flea dirt. This looks like tiny black specks in your cat's fur, especially around the neck and back. It's actually flea feces—digested blood. Here's the test: Put some of those black specks on a damp white paper towel. If they turn reddish-brown, that's flea dirt. It's blood.

Red, irritated skin. Check your cat's skin for small red bumps, scabs, or inflamed areas. This is flea allergy dermatitis, and some cats are extremely allergic to flea saliva.

Restlessness or behavior changes. A cat dealing with fleas is uncomfortable and stressed. They may become more aggressive, hide more, or seem anxious.

Visible fleas. Part your cat's fur and look at the skin. Fleas are fast, but you might catch one running across the skin. They're easiest to spot on the belly, armpits, and around the neck.

Pale gums. In severe infestations, especially in kittens, fleas can cause anemia. Check your cat's gums—if they're pale instead of healthy pink, that's a medical emergency. Get to a vet immediately.

Tapeworm segments. Fleas can carry tapeworm eggs. If you see small, rice-like segments around your cat's rear end or in their bedding, your cat has tapeworms from ingesting fleas while grooming.

If you notice any of these signs, don't wait. The longer you delay treatment, the worse the infestation becomes and the harder it is to eliminate.

SEGMENT 3: IMMEDIATE ACTION - WHAT TO DO RIGHT

Okay, you've confirmed your cat has fleas. What do you do right now, today, before you even finish listening to this podcast?

Step 1: Isolate the infected cat.

If you have multiple pets, separate them temporarily. You don't want fleas jumping from one animal to another while you're treating them.

Step 2: Give your cat a flea bath.

Now, not all cats tolerate baths well, so be prepared. Use a flea shampoo specifically designed for cats. Regular dog flea shampoo can be toxic to cats because cats are much more sensitive to certain chemicals, especially pyrethrins and permethrins.

Fill a sink or tub with lukewarm water—about 3-4 inches deep. Wet your cat thoroughly, avoiding the face. Apply the flea shampoo and work it into a lather, paying special attention to the neck, under the legs, and around the tail. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes (read the product instructions). The shampoo needs time to kill the fleas.

Here's a pro tip: Create a "flea barrier" around your cat's neck first, before wetting the rest of the body. Fleas will run toward the head when they feel water, so if you wet the neck area first and apply shampoo there, you create a barrier that prevents them from hiding in your cat's ears and face.

Rinse thoroughly. Leftover shampoo can irritate your cat's skin. Then towel dry and, if your cat tolerates it, use a blow dryer on the lowest, coolest setting.

Step 3: Use a flea comb immediately after the bath.

While your cat's fur is still slightly damp, comb through with a fine-toothed flea comb. You'll catch dead fleas, flea dirt, and any surviving fleas. Keep a bowl of soapy water nearby to dunk the comb and drown any fleas you catch.

Comb systematically—start at the head, work down the neck, across the back, down the sides, and finish with the belly and legs. Pay extra attention to warm areas where fleas like to hide.

Step 4: Apply a topical flea treatment.

After the bath, once your cat is completely dry, apply a spot-on flea treatment. These are the liquid treat...