A storm over a single restaurant chain has exposed a deeper anxiety about what Chinese food is becoming. When Xibei was criticized for relying on centrally prepared, frozen dishes rather than fresh cooking, it ignited a national debate about authenticity, memory, and the cost of modernization. In this episode, we explore why China’s growing middle class longs for the tastes of a rural past even as urban life and logistics push restaurants toward industrial efficiency. As central kitchens replace skilled hands and consistency crowds out craft, the story suggests a polarized future—one where mass-produced meals dominate everyday dining, and truly artisanal cuisine becomes a luxury few can afford.

https://www.economist.com/china/2025/09/22/a-restaurant-scandal-sticks-in-chinas-throat