When a place tries to be good lots of different things, it runs the risk of not doing any of them particularly well. It’s no accident that many of the world’s best restaurants have very small menus and deliberate styles of service. But is the attempt to do many things always a red flag? What if those differences go far beyond just a menu? I was introduced to a place that gave its own unique answer to that. I’ll tell you what it offered, and whether it was successful . . . at Mile 135.