The Nail Tech Society

Episode 11 — The TPO Ban Explained… And Why I’m Finally Talking About HEMA

Well… I went there! 😳

In this episode I’m talking all things TPO, what the ban actually means, why TPO was banned, the evidence behind it, the important dates, insurance and why I believe there has been far too much panic and misinformation surrounding it.

But while I was at it, I decided it was finally time to talk openly about HEMA too.

This is a subject I’ve avoided discussing publicly for a long time, mainly because of the fear and judgement surrounding it within our industry. But I’m an educator, I work within product development, and I believe we need to be able to have honest conversations about the products and ingredients we use.

So I’m not holding back in this one.

We’re talking HEMA vs HEMA-free, allergies and sensitisation, product exposure, curing, lamps, natural nail damage, professional responsibility and why changing the bottle on your desk will never compensate for poor education or poor working practices.

You may not agree with everything I say. You might hear some truths you don't particularly like, and that's OK.

My aim isn't to tell you what products you should or shouldn't use.

It's to make you think, question what you're being told and understand enough to make your own informed professional decisions.

Because there will always be another ingredient, another headline and another social-media panic.

Knowledge over fear. Every single time.

🎧 Listen now to Episode 11 of The Nail Tech Society Podcast.

For online and in-person nail education, courses and more, visit:

Melanie Lewendon Academy
www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

And yes… I definitely needed a large glass of wine after recording this one! 🍷😂

In this episode, we're breaking down one of the most misunderstood parts of nail enhancements: the apex.

We explain what the apex actually is, why it's essential for strength and durability, and why its ideal placement changes depending on nail length.

We also dive into the hidden apex, a growing trend in the industry, covering the free-edge building and underside filing technique it requires, which products work best (hard gel, acrygel, acrylic), and why soft biab isn't a good fit.

Whether you're a working nail tech or a student just starting out, this episode will help you understand apex placement on a deeper level and avoid the most common mistakes that lead to breaks, lifting, and return clients for repairs !

Great resources for structure and apex :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nail-Shapes-Structure-Compendium-Beautiful/dp/0993079113

See courses here.

www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

Follow my instagram :

https://www.instagram.com/melanielewendon_nailartist/

Think an infill and a rebalance are the same thing? Think again. In this episode, I explain the key differences, when each service should be performed, and why soaking off and starting from scratch at every appointment isn't always the right choice. If you want to improve your maintenance appointments and understand the science behind long-lasting enhancements, this episode is for you.

For education, upskilling courses and resources, visit:
www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

Please rate and follow this podcast to help me show up in front of nail techs just like you.

Understanding the nail plate is one of the most important parts of becoming a great nail technician… yet it’s often the most overlooked.

In this episode of The Nail Tech Society, I break down the structure of the natural nail in a way that actually makes sense. No overcomplicated language, no confusion, just a simple explanation of the nail plate layers, what they do, and why they matter in every single service you carry out.

If you’ve ever struggled with lifting, over filing, poor retention, or just felt unsure about what’s happening beneath your product, this episode will help connect the dots.

We cover the dorsal, intermediate, and ventral layers, their purpose, and how your prep, application, and removal techniques directly affect them.

Because once you understand the nail plate properly, everything changes:
your application improves, your retention improves, and your confidence as a nail tech grows.

This is about respecting the natural nail, working with it, not against it, and truly understanding the foundation of everything we do.

🎧 Perfect for beginners, struggling techs, or anyone wanting to tighten up their knowledge and raise their standards.

Please follow this podcast and give me a like so I can show up in front of other techs, just like you.

Website:

https://melanielewendonacademy.co.uk/

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/melanielewendon_nailartist/

In this episode, I look at how heat affects our nail products and the steps we can take to make working in warmer temperatures much easier.

From changes in viscosity and product flooding, to heat spikes, curing concerns, and client comfort, I break down what’s actually happening to your products during hot weather and why your normal application methods may suddenly stop working the same way.

I also discuss storage tips for salon and mobile nail techs, why thick application can become even more problematic in the heat, and how understanding your chemistry can help you work cleaner, safer, and with better retention.

As nail techs, understanding how our products react to environmental changes helps us become more knowledgeable and adaptable professionals. Sometimes it’s not the product failing, it’s the environment changing around it.

Do you feel you have gaps in your knowledge and education? Then take a look at my website and the courses I offer.

www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

Does nail chemistry and science completely confuse you?

You’re not alone… and honestly, it’s one of the biggest things that holds nail techs back from really understanding what they’re doing.

In this episode of The Nail Tech Society, award-winning nail educator Melanie Lewendon breaks down monomers, oligomers, and polymers in a way that actually makes sense. No complicated jargon, no overthinking… just simple, clear explanations you can apply to your work straight away.

If you’ve ever wondered:

• What these terms actually mean

• Why curing matters so much for strength and retention

…this episode is for you.

Think of this as your foundation. Because once you understand the chemistry behind nail products, everything else starts to click… from application to retention, curing, and even preventing issues like lifting and breakdown.

And don’t worry… you’re not getting a science lecture.

Just a Derbyshire lass breaking it down simply for you.

I’ve also included a downloadable visual guide in the show notes to help you understand this even further. You can get this here.

Training, courses, and support:
www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

Struggling with lifting, poor retention, or nails not lasting as long as they should?

You’re not alone… and more importantly, it’s probably not your products.

In this episode of The Nail Tech Society, I break down one of the biggest misconceptions in the nail industry right now… that switching brands will fix your problems.

With constant ingredient changes, reformulations, and trends influencing the industry, many nail techs are spending hundreds or even thousands rebranding their kit… only to find the same issues still happening.

So what’s really going wrong?

In this episode, we cover:

• Why lifting and retention issues are rarely caused by your brand
• How incorrect prep and application impact adhesion
• The importance of lamp compatibility and proper curing

• A simple explanation of the nail plate layers and how they affect retention
• How over-filing or under-prepping the nail can lead to lifting
• Why upskilling is more valuable than constantly switching products

If you’re a nail tech feeling frustrated, overwhelmed, or stuck chasing the “perfect” brand… this episode will help you refocus on what actually makes a difference.

Because once your fundamentals are right… your results change.

🎧 Follow The Nail Tech Society for honest, educational conversations that cut through the noise and help you become a confident, knowledgeable nail technician.

📲 Connect with Me for training, courses, and support:
Website: www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk
Instagram: @melanielewendon_nailartist

Free resources :

Builder gel guide

Are You Actually Qualified? The Truth About Nail Training and Gel Systems

In this episode of The Nail Tech Society, I’m discussing a real conversation I had this week with a fellow nail tech… and it highlights a much bigger issue within our industry.

Training.

More specifically, what we assume we’re qualified to do… versus what we’ve actually been trained and assessed in.

We’re seeing more and more technicians using multiple gel systems under one certificate, assuming that because they’ve trained in one, they understand them all. But in reality, soft builder, hard gel, base systems and their application, structure, maintenance and removal all vary more than people realise.

In this episode, I talk about:

• Why one course doesn’t always cover everything
• The difference between common practice and best practice
• Why system specific training actually matters
• The risks of assuming knowledge without proper education
• How does this links to client safety, insurance and professional responsibility?

Because at the end of the day, our job is to protect the natural nail first and assumption is going to prevent you form doing that .

And as educators, we should be taking that responsibility seriously too.

https://melanielewendonacademy.co.uk/

What Are Nail Gels? A Simple Guide to All Gel Types Used by Nail Techs

In this episode of The Nail Tech Society, we’re breaking down one of the most common questions in the nail industry… what gel should I actually be using, what's the difference !?

If you’ve ever felt confused by the difference between builder gel, hard gel, rubber base and standard gel polish, this episode is for you.

I take you through:

• What gel actually is and how it cures
• The difference between soft and hard gel systems
• Gel polish, rubber base, fibre gels, builder gels and acrygel
• How long each system should last
• When to use each product and when not to
• Why choosing the right gel for your client matters

We also simplify some of the science, including cross linking chains, viscosity and self-levelling, so it all finally makes sense.

This is a must listen if you want to stop guessing, start understanding your products, and improve your results as a nail technician.

As always, we’re cutting through the noise of the nail industry and keeping things clear, honest and easy to understand.

Please feel free to message me with any questions you may have. [email protected]

If you want to upskill please see my courses here.

www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk

If you would like to see a blog on this subject please see here

https://melanielewendonacademy.co.uk/blogs/news/hard-gel-vs-soft-gel-builder-gels-explained

In this episode, I dive into the minefield that is choosing a nail brand.

Every day, nail techs are bombarded with opinions on which brand is “best” , but the reality is, the right choice comes down to you, your clients, and how you work.

I break down what you actually need to consider when choosing a brand, what makes a brand safe and reliable, and why your technique matters more than the bottle in your hand.

If you’ve ever felt overwhelmed by brand recommendations or unsure what to invest in, this episode will help bring some clarity.

Bringing calm to the chaos of the nail industry.

Topics covered: nail brands, gel polish, builder gel, acrylic systems, nail training, nail tech advice, UK nail industry

If you found this helpful, make sure you follow The Nail Tech Society Podcast and share it with another nail tech who needs this.

Download your free brand checklist here

www.melanielewendonacademy.co.uk