Punta Arenas is an Antarctic Gateway city. It has trapped the likes of Shackleton, Henry Worsley and other polar explorers - but, more recently, 2000 cruise passengers were stuck here at the start of the Covid-19 pandemic. Amongst them was NZ Herald travel writer Thomas Bywater, who used the time to reflect on Antarctica's rapid move into a tourist destination.

With thanks to Gábor Van Tolna, Ceisha Poirot of Antarctica New Zealand, James Cooley, Catherine Sutherland

For more on this series, head to nzherald.co.nz/detour

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